Sheet-Pan Crispy Harissa Tofu, Chickpeas, and Broccolini

I always keep a jar of harissa paste in my fridge as a quick way to add flavor to simple protein or vegetable dishes. NY Shuk makes my favorite go-to premade harissa, but thankfully this condiment is so popular that you can even find it at many grocery stores. Each brand has its own flavor profile and spice level; taste your harissa and assess its heat before adding it in the amount indicated in the recipe.

Like all sheet pan meals, this is a simple cook-it-all-together kind of dinner. If you take a little time to press your tofu before roasting it, it will end up crispy-edged. This recipe can be doubled and placed on two sheet pans if you’re cooking for a larger family or group. Depending on your sides, this is an abundant meal for two or a modest meal for 4.

Sheet-Pan Crispy Harissa Tofu, Chickpeas, and Broccolini

Serves 2-4
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:
1 (14-ounce) container extra firm tofu
1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, or 1½ cups cooked chickpeas
¼ cup harissa paste, divided, or to taste (I use NY Shuk brand)
¼ cup potato starch or cornstarch
1 bunch broccolini or rapini, ends trimmed (or 1 head of broccoli cut into florets)
Salt and pepper, to taste
Oil, as needed

Directions:

1. Drain the tofu, then wrap it in a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Place a heavy skillet, or another heavy flat object on top to press the tofu and remove its excess moisture. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes. While the tofu is being pressed, drain a can of chickpeas and place it on a separate clean kitchen towel or paper towel to remove excess moisture.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F, and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

3. Slice the tofu into equal-sized cubes or pieces. Add them to a medium bowl with 2 Tablespoons of harissa (or more/less, depending on the spice level of your harissa and preference), 2-3 teaspoons of oil, salt, and pepper. Toss gently so the tofu pieces are all evenly coated. Add the potato starch to a small bowl, and dip each piece of tofu in the starch, so that it is covered on each side. Place the dipped tofu onto the baking sheet. 

4. Add the chickpeas to the same bowl the tofu was in with 2 more Tablespoons of harissa, 2 teaspoons of oil, and salt and pepper. Toss the chickpeas until they are well-coated. Transfer them to the sheet pan so that they are spread out around the tofu. Make sure the tofu also has room to brown and isn’t cramped too closely to the other tofu or chickpeas.

5. While the tofu and chickpeas are in the oven, toss the broccolini in the same bowl, with an additional generous drizzle of oil, salt, and pepper. 

6. Roast the tofu and chickpeas for 15 minutes, or until starting to crisp and brown on the bottom. Take the sheet pan out of the oven, and flip the tofu pieces over. Rearrange the tofu and the chickpeas so they fill only ⅔ of the sheet pan. Add the broccolini to the remaining ⅓ of the sheet pan. Place back in the oven for an additional 10-15 minutes, or until the broccolini is fully cooked and the tofu is crisped and browned on both sides.

7. Serve immediately with a simple side like rice, quinoa, or orzo. Tahini sauce also makes an excellent topping for this dish along with fresh herbs of your choice.

Cara Cara Orange Olive Oil Cake

Hanukkah is a celebration of all things oil, and is celebrated by both lighting candles each night of Hanukkah, as well as by eating oil-rich foods during the holiday. 

Sometimes, I need a break from the typical fried foods of Hanukkah, like latkes and donuts. I started making this simple olive oil cake as a way to honor the holiday without deep frying, adapting recipes from both Dorie Greenspan and Melissa Clark. After the holiday ended, I kept making it throughout the winter when Cara Cara oranges are in season. While I love the floral notes of a Cara Cara, any type of orange will work with this recipe. This cake is easy to make, even for a novice baker. I love to serve it with a dollop of whipped cream or a spoonful of tangy labneh.

Cara Cara Orange Olive Oil Cake
Makes 1 (9”) cake, serves 8

Ingredients:

• 2 large Cara Cara oranges

• Zest of 1 orange

• 1 cup sugar

• 2 large eggs, at room temperature

• ⅓ cup orange juice

• ⅓ cup buttermilk (or milk with ½ a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar added)

• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1¾ cups (230 grams) all-purpose flour 

• 1¼ teaspoon baking powder

• ¼ teaspoon baking soda

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

• ⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line a 9 inch springform pan (or 9 inch cake pan) with parchment. You can also use a standard-sized loaf pan, but will need to bake for 10-15 minutes longer. 

Supreme one orange: cut off the bottom and top, place on the cutting board so the cut bottom is flat on the board, then cut the peel and pith from all sides. Next, carefully slice each segment naturally between the pith, leaving only a crescent of fruit. Reserve.

Zest the remaining orange with a microplane or zester, and reserve. Halve, then squeeze ⅓ cup worth of juice from the zested orange. 

In a large bowl, whisk together the orange zest, sugar, eggs, orange juice, buttermilk (or milk and apple cider mixture), and vanilla together. 

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. 

Add the flour mixture to the orange juice/buttermilk mixture, and mix until just incorporated and smooth. Using a spatula, gently fold the olive oil into the batter until just incorporated. Transfer the batter to the greased and lined pan, and then place the orange segments on top of the batter. 

Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a small skewer or cake tester comes out clean. Cool and serve topped with powdered sugar, whipped cream, or a dollop of labneh. 

Easy Roast Turkey for Thanksgiving

I have been using my mother’s method for roasting turkey since I began hosting Thanksgiving in my twenties. The main difference between this and other roast turkey recipes is that you cover the bird for part of the cooking time. The skin may not get super crispy, but it stays incredibly juicy and flavorful. No bland dry turkey here. In recent years, I’ve been doing a dry brine a day or two before roasting for added flavor and tenderness, but you can skip that step if desired.

And all that said… when in doubt, just follow Tante Marie’s advice.

Thanksgiving Roast Turkey

Ingredients:
1 14-16 lb turkey, giblets removed
3 Tbsps kosher salt
1 Tbsp brown sugar
3 onions, quartered
3 carrots, cut into large chunks
3-4 apples or quinces, quartered
1 head garlic, halved
1 bunch thyme, rosemary, sage, or all three
1 large lemon, halved
1-2 cups white wine or chicken/turkey broth
Olive oil, as needed

Remove the giblets and anything inside the turkey.

Combine the salt and brown sugar to make a dry brine. Generously season the outside of the bird and the inside cavity with the brine. Place in a roasting pan/baking dish and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24-48 hours before roasting. If you do not want to dry brine your bird, simply season it with the salt and sugar mixture on the day of roasting.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

To the bottom of your roasting pan add the onion, carrot, and apples/quince. Place the turkey on top of the aromatics.

Stuff the inside of the turkey with the lemon, garlic, and herbs.

Rub the turkey with oil. Add the wine or stock to the roasting dish.

Cover the roasting dish tightly with foil.

Place in the oven, estimate about 1 hour for every 5 pounds. After half of the cooking time, remove the foil and uncover the turkey. Baste it with any juices in the bottom of the roasting dish. Continue to baste and check on the bird every 30-45 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 165°F when tested with a meat thermometer.

Let the turkey rest for at least 30 minutes before carving, and up to an hour. While it's resting I throw other things in the oven that need to get roasted or heated. 

Carve and serve!

Apple and Honey Dumplings

I first shared this story and recipe with The Nosher in 2023.

Old-fashioned apple dumplings are made with peeled and cored-out apples that get encased in pastry or biscuit crust and are baked until golden and tender. This dessert has remained popular in the United States for hundreds of years, from New England to the deep South.

The concept of delicate dough plus apples can also be found in the Czech Republic, where the dumplings are also sometimes made with whole plums or apricots. In Germany and Ukraine, you might find apple dumplings that are made with dough that is simmered instead of baked. A dumpling is still a dumpling whether it’s baked or boiled, and a dumpling is universally loved across cultures and countries.

These apple dumplings work best with very small, tart firm varieties like Granny Smith or Winesap. The flavor of the apple deepens as it becomes fork-tender in its buttery blanket of dough, and it’s sweetened by a honey sauce that can be whisked together in minutes. Best of all, this dessert serves a crowd of eight, can be made up to two days ahead, and can be easily reheated when you’re ready to serve. 

Apple & Honey Dumplings 
Serves 8

Prep time:15-30 minutes
Cook time: 55-60 minutes
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients
For the dumplings:
8 small, chilled apples, 100-130 g each (Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Honeycrisp or an heirloom apple)
4 tsps unsalted butter or plant-based butter
2 tsps cinnamon
2 9” pie crusts, store bought or from scratch (recipe attached)

For the sauce:
1 cup water
½ cup honey 
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ tsp salt

For the double crust pie dough (optional):
2½ cups (340 g) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 cup (225 g) cold butter, cubed
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
5-6 Tbps ice water

Directions:
Start by making the pastry (optional, if using store-bought pie crust skip to Direction 4). In a food processor: pulse the flour, sugar and salt together. Add the cubed cold butter and pulse until pea-sized crumbs form. Add the apple cider vinegar and 5 Tbsp ice water and pulse, it will look a little bit crumbly at first and then as you pulse it will begin to form into a ball. If it doesn’t clump together easily, add another Tbsp water, or as needed. Be careful not to overmix and once it forms a bowl, transfer it out of the processor and divide into two equal-sized pieces.

By hand: whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the cubed cold butter and combine with the flour with a pastry cutter or by hand until pea-sized crumbs of dough form. Add the apple cider vinegar and ice water and incorporate quickly with your hands until a ball of dough is formed. Be careful not to overmix. Once the ball is formed, divide the dough into two equal-sized pieces. 

Form each piece of dough into a square shape, and tightly cover with plastic wrap or a beeswax wrap. Allow the dough to chill for at least 1 hour, or overnight before using. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13” baking dish.

Peel and core your cold apples; it is easier to wrap the dough around the apple if they are chilled as opposed to at room temperature. 

Roll out one piece of dough into a large, thin 12x12” square. Divide the dough into 4 even-sized 6x6” squares. Repeat the process with the second piece of dough.

Place a cored apple upright into the center of each square. Add a ½ tsp of butter to the center of the apple. Sprinkle the tops of the apple with cinnamon, about ¼ teaspoon per apple. Bring the corners of the dough up and over the apple, firmly pressing the edges together to fully encase the dough. If there are any scraps of dough, shape them into leaf shapes to decoratively top the dumplings. 

Place the apple dumplings into the greased baking dish, and bake for 30 minutes.

While the apple dumplings are baking, make the sauce by combining the water, honey, sugar, and salt in a small pan. Bring to a simmer, and simmer until sugar is fully dissolved, about 3-4 minutes. 

Pour the sauce over the apple dumplings, then place them back in the oven to bake for an additional 25-30 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown, and the apples are tender when tested with a skewer or thin knife. 

Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes, then serve warm or room temperature. 

To make ahead: Slightly underbake the dumplings for 10 minutes. Let them cool, then store covered with foil in the fridge. The next day, reheat them covered in foil for 10-15 minutes in a 350°F oven. Apple dumplings can be made up to 2 days in advance of serving. 

Galette with any kind of fruit

Over on my free Substack, I’ve been sharing recipes and seasonal reflections — like this updated galette recipe that you can make with any kind of fruit.

The dough is made with an all-butter crust (and yes, you can make it in the food processor OR by hand). I fill it with all kinds of summer fruit like sour cherries, peaches, berries, or plums. Lately, I’ve been adding a layer of frangipane underneath the fruit for a touch of almondy richness.

Sign up for my substack to find this recipe and many more…

Cheddar Cheese Coin Crackers

I am an unabashed cracker enthusiast, and I am always pleasantly surprised by how simple it can be to make them at home. Cheddar cheese coins (also called cheese pennies) have the addictive savory tanginess of a Cheez-It, with the hardiness of a homemade cracker.

This retro snack is made with just a few simple ingredients like good cheddar cheese, flour, and butter. They’re quick to whip up and store well in an airtight container. Cheese coins are flavorful enough to be served and eaten all on their own, ideally as a light nibble accompanied by a fizzy beverage before dinner. These crackers are extra delightful topped with a fruity fig or plum preserve, or even a slice of cheese on top. What’s not to love about salty, cheesy, crispy crackers?

Notes: 

1. This recipe works best with hand grated cheese, as opposed to the store-bought pre-shredded variety, which has a powdery coating on the outside.

2. You can store the cheese coins in an airtight container for up to one week.
   

Cheddar Cheese Coins
Yield: 48 crackers
Prep time: 10 minutes + 2 hours chill time
Cook time: 12-14 minutes

Ingredients

• 5 oz (140 g) extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated, about 2 cups

• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, very cold

• 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 

• 1 Tbsp cornstarch 

• 2 tsp dry mustard powder

• 1 tsp sweet paprika

• ¼ tsp salt

• 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 

• 2-3 Tbsp ice cold water

Directions

1. Start by grating your cheese. Cube your butter very small. 

2. To the bowl of a food processor add the flour, cornstarch, dry mustard powder, paprika, salt and grated cheese. Pulse 2-3 times to mix.

3. Add the cubed butter and pulse 5-6 times, or until the mixture forms pea-sized crumbs. 

4. Add the vinegar and 2 Tbsp water. Pulse until the dough is like the texture of fine crumbly sand and easily holds together when balled up in your hand. If the mixture looks too dry and doesn’t stick together, add one more Tbsp water and pulse a few more times. 

5. Transfer to a clean surface and form into a ball. Divide the ball into two equal halves, and form each half into a log, about 1½” in diameter, and about 7-8” long. Wrap each log in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight. 

6. Preheat the oven to 375°F, arrange the oven racks so there is one on the top third and one on the bottom third of the oven (alternatively, you can bake the crackers in the center of the oven, one baking sheet at a time). 

7. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the chilled dough into ¼” rounds. Place them on the baking sheets, leaving an inch or two between each coin.  

8. Place the baking sheets on the top third and lower third of the oven, and bake for 6 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets, and bake for 6-8 more minutes, or until they are just starting to turn golden brown at the edges. If you like them crispier, bake until slightly deeper brown on the edges and on top.

9. Let the coins completely cool on a baking rack. Once cool, serve or store in an airtight container for up to one week.

Asparagus, Gruyere & Swiss Tart

This classic Spring tart is flavorful and buttery and is easy to whip up for a brunch spread or Mother’s Day. When possible, I try to use an all-butter puff pastry and fresh local asparagus — you can even often find good quality puff pastry sold by the sheet at your local bakery. The combination of Gruyere and Swiss is rich and nutty, and the whole grain Dijon adds a bright complexity to the flavor. If you’re not a fan of either cheese, you can swap them for a sharp cheddar or aged Gouda. This tart is a crowd-pleaser and is great served alongside a bright and citrusy salad. 

I recently had the pleasure of being back on KATU’s AM NW and you can find a full demo of this recipe here.

Asparagus Gruyere & Swiss Tart
Serves 6-8

Ingredients

• 1 sheet of puff pastry, defrosted

• 1 (1 lb/500 g) bunch asparagus

• 1¼ cups (3 oz / 85 g) shredded Gruyere cheese 

• 1¼ cups (3 oz / 85 g) shredded Swiss cheese, or substitute with additional Gruyere

• 2 Tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard (optional)

• Drizzle of olive oil

• 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

• Flaky salt, as desired

• Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Depending on the brand of puff pastry you use, your tart might be slightly larger or smaller in size. Gently roll out your puff pastry until it’s roughly 11-13” (28-33 cm) in length, and 6-9” (15-23 cm) wide. Transfer the rectangle onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. 

3. With the tip of a sharp knife, score a border around the pastry dough, about 1” (2.5 cm) from the edge, forming a rectangular frame.

4. Using a fork, lightly pierce the pastry evenly across the inside of the rectangle. This will help prevent excessive puffing in the center while allowing the edges to rise evenly.

5. Trim the tough ends off the asparagus spears to fit them within the inner rectangle of the tart. To do this, gently bend each asparagus spear near its base until it naturally snaps; discard the tough ends or reserve them for making stock if desired.

6. To assemble the tart: evenly spread 2 tablespoons of the whole grain mustard in the inner rectangle of the tart. Top evenly with shredded cheese. Arrange the asparagus, like straight soldiers, on top of the cheese. Lightly drizzle or brush the asparagus with olive oil. Brush the edges of the tart with beaten egg. Sprinkle the tart with flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper. 

7. Bake for 22-25 minutes, or until puffed up and golden brown at the edges and the asparagus spears are tender and cooked through. 

8. Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes prior to serving. Tart can be served warm or at room temperature. This tart is best served the same day it’s baked, but you can store it in the fridge for up to 3 days. The tart can be reheated at 350°F (175°C) until warmed through. 

Yemenite White Bean Soup with Zhoug

This classic Yemenite white bean soup is designed to be topped with herby, cardamom-rich zhoug. Zhoug is spicy, floral, and very springy — it’s worth a try if you’ve never had it before, even if you’re slightly spice-averse (I recommend using less jalapeno if that’s the case). While you can make this soup with canned beans, if you take the time to cook up beans from scratch and save their cooking liquid, that bean broth adds tons of flavor to the final soup.

Yemenite White Bean Soup with Zhoug ( hot sauce)
Originally published on The Nosher
Serves 6

For the soup-

• 1 cup dry white/Cannellini beans, or 2 15oz cans (about 3.5-4 cups)

• Olive oil, as needed

• 1 large onion, diced small

• 1 large leek, diced small

• 1 carrot, diced small

• 1 celery, diced small

• 1 Roma tomato chopped small (or 1 tablespoon tomato paste)

• 6 cloves garlic, peeled and divided

• 2 large bay leaves, divided

• 3 sprigs thyme, leaves removed from stem

• 10 cups (2.5 Qts) liquid (chicken broth, vegetable broth, or water)

• A spoonful of finely chopped parsley or cilantro stems from the zhug

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Juice of ½ a lemon, or to taste

For the zhoug-

• 5-10 small Jalapenos (5 for mild, 10 for hot), sliced in half and deseeded 

• 1 bunch cilantro

• 1 bunch parsley

• 1 large clove garlic, peeled

• 1 tablespoon ground cardamom

• 2 teaspoons caraway seeds (optional)

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• Juice of ½ a lemon

• ¼ cup oil (a mild neutral oil: light olive oil, sunflower, canola, etc. 

Directions:
For the soup:
If using dry beans: soak the beans overnight. In a large pot or in an Instapot, cover the dried beans with 2-3 inches of water. Add a large bay leaf and 4 peeled cloves of garlic to the pot. Simmer beans until tender. 

To a large pot add a generous drizzle of olive oil over medium heat, and add the diced onion, leek, carrot, and celery. Sauté the vegetables until softened, about 6-8 minutes. Add the chopped tomato (or tomato paste if using), 2 peeled garlic cloves to the pot, 1 bay leaf, thyme, and chopped herb stems to the pot. Add the liquid to the pot; I like to add a few cups of the bean cooking liquid in addition to the broth if I’ve made the beans from dried. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, and allow to simmer for 20 minutes. 

Add the cooked or canned beans to the pot and simmer for another 20-25 minutes. Taste, and season accordingly. Turn off the heat, and add the lemon juice. 

At this point, you can serve the soup as is. I however prefer to remove about a third of the soup from the pot. I blend the remaining soup until light and creamy. I add the remaining soup back to the pot. This makes the soup smooth and creamy, with pops of beans and vegetables. Serve topped with as much zhug as desired. 

For the zhoug:
To a food processor add the deseeded jalapenos, parsley, cilantro, garlic, cardamom, caraway, and salt. Pulse until finely chopped. If you don’t have a food processor, you can also chop the ingredients finely by hand. Transfer the chopped chili and herb mixture to a bowl. Add the oil and lemon juice and stir until combined. Zhoug will last up to 2 weeks in a well-sealed container, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months. 

Celery, kohlrabi, date salad with toasted almond and sesame

Summer salads often get all the hype, but I’m here for winter vegetables. I’m even a proud celery enthusiast. This salad is crunchy, lemony, sweet , and nutty. It keeps well in the fridge, just make sure to add the nuts right before serving so they keep their satisfying crunch.

Celery and Kohlrabi Salad with Dates and Toasted Nuts
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
6-7 stalks celery, plus any leaves if attached
1 large kohlrabi or 2 small
5-6 large Medjool dates, pitted
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
2 Tbsps extra virgin olive oil 
¾ tsp kosher salt
Black pepper, to taste
½ cup toasted almonds, chopped
2 Tbsps toasted sesame seeds 

Directions:

1. Thinly slice celery stalks on the bias. 

2. Peel the kohlrabi, then julienne it by slicing it into thin rounds, and then slicing the rounds into thin strips.

3. Chop the dates.

4. Combine the sliced celery, kohlrabi, and chopped dates in a bowl.

5. Add lemon juice, olive oill, salt, and pepper to the salad. Toss until well combined. If making ahead, place in an airtight container in the fridge. Salad keeps for 2-3 days.

6. Right before serving top the salad with chopped almonds and toasted sesame seeds.

Suggested dditions and substitutions:
- Add feta cheese crumbles
- Swap kohlrabi for 3 additional stalks celery, or for 1 head of fennel, or for 1 apple
- Swap almonds for toasted hazelnuts or walnuts
- Swap toasted sesame seeds for 1 Tbsp nigella seeds

Sweet potato latkes with cranberry salsa

To get a crispier sweet potato latke, I like to make mine with a combination of half Russet potatoes and half sweet potatoes; adding some starchy potato to another vegetable helps any fritter or latke crisp up.

I love making the most of cranberries while they’re in season, and this cranberry salsa comes together in minutes in a food processor and is the perfect compliment to crispy fried sweet potato or even a good quality tortilla chip. One important note, make the salsa in advance of whipping up a batch of these latkes.

Happy latke season!

Sweet Potato Latkes with Cranberry Salsa
Serves 4-6

For the salsa -

• 12 oz fresh cranberries 

• 1 large jalapeno

• ½ small red onion

• 2-3 scallions

• 1-inch piece of fresh ginger

• Juice of 1 lime

• ¼ cup sugar

• 1 tsp kosher salt

Rinse the cranberries; fresh cranberries work best, but you can use thawed frozen cranberries, but there will be a wetter consistency to the salsa. Trim the stem of the jalapeno, then dice it; for a milder salsa remove the seeds. Cut the onion and scallions into 1-inch chunks. Peel the ginger, and dice it. 

Add the cranberries, jalapeno, onion, scallions, lime juice, sugar, and salt to a food processor. Pulse until the cranberries are very finely diced, be careful not to overmix or the salsa will just turn to juice.

Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or ideally overnight. Salsa lasts up to one week in an airtight container in the fridge 

Sweet potato + potato latkes

• 1 lb (450 g) sweet potato, about 2 large 

• 1 lb (450 g) Russet potato, about 2 large

• 1  small white or yellow onion

• 2 large eggs

• ½ cup potato starch 

• 1½ tsps kosher salt

• Black pepper, as desired

• Oil as needed (e.g. sunflower, avocado, or canola)

Peel the Russet potato and shred it using a box grater (you can also shred it in a food processor if desired). Transfer the potato shreds to a clean kitchen towel or cheesecloth, and squeeze out excess liquid, then add the dry potato to a large bowl. 

Peel and shred the sweet potato, and add it to the bowl with the potato.

Grate the onion on the box grater (or food processor) and add it to the potatoes. 

Add the egg, potato starch, salt, and pepper to the potato batter. Mix until combined.

Add about a ½-inch of oil to a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add a heaping tablespoon of the batter to the pan, and press down to flatten. Cook the latkes in batches, and make sure not to overcrowd the pan. Let each latke fry on one side for 3-4 minutes until golden, flip, and continue to cook until golden on the opposite side, about 2-3 minutes. Transfer the latkes onto paper towels or a baking rack to drain any excess oil. Season with a little extra salt if desired, while the latkes are still hot. 

Serve hot topped with cranberry salsa, and sour cream if desired.

Ukrainian Summer Fruit Kompot

My grandmother would always make a vibrant, fragrant, ice-cold kompot (compote) in the dog days of summer, often with fruit my family had foraged or harvested in the Pacific Northwest. Kompot is essentially stewed fruit that can be strained and enjoyed as a beverage, or it can be ladled into deep mugs and served like a fruit soup. Rich with berries and stone fruit, the deep purple liquid would cool us down as the temperature climbed.

Kompot is very popular in Ukraine, where my family comes from, and across the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. Each home has its own recipe, and it can be made with fresh or even dried fruit. Keeping with tradition, I often squirrel away foraged fruit in the freezer; preserving berries and stone fruit from throughout the season waiting for the right time to make this family recipe. Inevitably, an August heat wave will arrive, and that’s when I take out my grandmother’s big enamel pot and fill it with all that saved fruit. The house will slowly fill with the smell of simmering fruit, and I’ll eagerly wait for the satisfaction of sipping on chilled kompot.

This recipe is very simple and endlessly modifiable and can be made year-round from fresh or frozen fruit.

Ukrainian Summer Fruit Kompot (Compote)
Serves 6-8

• Ingredients
  1½ lbs, mixed berries, fresh or frozen (raspberries, blackberries, currants, strawberries, etc.)

• 1 lb mixed stone fruit, fresh or frozen (cherries, plums, peaches)

• 2-3 small apples, cored and halved

• 1 cup sugar or honey, or to taste

• 8 cups of water 

• Juice of 1 lemon, optional 

Directions:
Clean off the fruit and remove any stems.

Add the fruit, sugar, and water to a large pot.

Bring the liquid up to a boil, then lower the heat and gently simmer for 10 minutes; you want the fruit to release its juices but still hold its shape.

Taste and add more sugar or honey if you like it sweeter. If adding extra sweetener, let it simmer for another 2-3 minutes to let the sugar dissolve. Add lemon juice if desired for a more tart flavor.

Allow the kompot to cool then transfer it to the fridge to fully chill before serving. 

If you prefer a strained kompot, use a mesh strainer, and transfer the kompot into a pitcher to serve cold. If you prefer the kompot with the fruit still in it, serve it ladled into deep cups or bowls with a spoon.

Cherry Vareniki

Cherry vareniki (half-moon-shaped dumplings) in Ukraine are typically made with sour cherries, known as vishnya. They are nostalgic for many from the region — including my family — and were famously novelist Nikolai Gogol’s favorite food. My family immigrated from Soviet Ukraine to Seattle, and after almost a decade of building a new life in America, my parents were able to buy their first home. It had an enormous garden, with an established cherry tree. Soon after moving, when I was a very small child, my grandparents came to visit us from out of town. That summer, the cherry tree was loaded with fruit. I vividly remember picking glossy, red cherries off the tree with my grandmother and brother by my side. There was more fruit than could be eaten fresh, and my grandmother decided to use some of the harvest to make a large batch of cherry vareniki. We sat outside and ate bowls of the dumplings – pillowy and bursting with tart, sweet fruit. 

Vareniki are similar to pierogi or pelmeni; the dough is tender and soft, and the filling is only lightly sweetened so that the flavor of the fruit shines. This dish straddles the line between sweet and savory; topped with smetana (sour cream), one can eat cherry vareniki either as a main course or as a dessert. When using sour cherries, I eat my vareniki as a savory dish; you can get sour cherries fresh for a few weeks each year, otherwise, I pick them up frozen or preserved from Eastern European or Russian markets. When I fill the vareniki with Bing or Rainier cherries, I enjoy these dumplings as a sweet treat.

I love to serve cherry vareniki with a simple cherry sauce made from the extra filling, topped with big dollops of sour cream to balance out the sweetness. Like any kind of homemade dumpling or ravioli, vareniki take some effort to make, but are unquestionably worth the work. They’re ideal to make with a group of friends, and you can double or even triple the recipe as needed. 

Notes:

• Vareniki freeze extraordinarily well, offering a way to preserve the best of fleeting cherry season for future bowls of sweet dumplings. Freeze uncooked in a single layer, then transfer them to a bag or airtight container for three months. 

Cherry Vareniki (Dumplings)
Serves: 4-6, makes about 50 vareniki
Prep time: 1 hour
Cook time: 10 minutes

Ingredients:
For the dough:

• 3 cups + 2 Tbsp (400 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting or as needed 

• ¾ cup water

• 2 Tbsp sour cream or plain Greek yogurt

• 1 large egg, beaten

• 1 tsp kosher salt

For the filling and sauce:

• 1½ lb (680 g) cherries or sour cherries

• ½ cup sugar

• 1 tsp cornstarch

• juice of ½ a lemon

• sour cream, as desired, for serving

Directions:

1. Start by making your dough: In a large bowl, combine the 3 cups of flour, water, sour cream, egg and salt. Mix until a shaggy dough forms, then transfer to a clean surface and knead until very soft, smooth and elastic, about 8-10 minutes. If the dough is very sticky, add additional flour 1 Tbsp at a time until it’s easy to knead and doesn’t stick to your hands. 

2. You can also make this dough in a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment by adding all of the ingredients to the bowl, and mixing on the lowest speed until a shaggy dough forms. Turn up the speed to medium-low, and mix until smooth and soft, about 4-5 minutes. 

3. Transfer the dough to a bowl and cover it with a lid or plastic wrap. Allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 1 hour. 

4. While the dough is resting, start on your filling. Wash, dry and pit all of your cherries. If using a cherry pitter, cut the cherry in half after removing the pit. Add the cherries to a bowl with ½ cup of sugar, and let them sit and start to release their juices for a minimum of 30 minutes, or as the dough rests.

5. Once your dough has rested for an hour and your cherries have been sitting for at least 30 minutes, you can begin shaping your vareniki. 

6. Line a baking sheet with parchment, and heavily dust it with flour.

7. Divide the dough into 4 pieces. Liberally dust both your rolling pin and your surface with flour. Roll out each piece of dough very thin, almost as thin as pasta; if you lift it up the dough light should come through it. 

8. Cut out 2-inch rounds of dough using a water glass or biscuit cutter, lightly flour the rim of the glass or cutter before making rounds. Gather up the scraps into a ball and reserve to re-roll the dough one time, after that discard any scraps. Fill each round of dough with about a teaspoon of cherry, about 1-1½ cherries. Seal the dumplings into half-moon shapes, if needed dab the edges with water to help it stick, but the dough should be sticky enough to press together on its own. Using the tines of a fork, press the edges of the dough to ensure they’re properly sealed. 

9. Transfer the formed dumplings onto the lined baking sheet. Reserve any remaining cherries for sauce. Repeat the process until you have used up all of the dough, and then place the dumplings in the freezer for a minimum of 15 minutes before cooking. While your vareniki are in the freezer you can bring a large pot of water to a boil. 

10. While the water is coming to a boil, add the remaining cherries to a small pot. Bring the cherry mixture up to a boil, lower the heat and simmer the cherries for 10-15 minutes or until they are very soft and broken down. In a small bowl, combine 1 tsp of cornstarch with the juice of half a lemon. At the end of cooking the cherries, add the starch slurry, and simmer for an additional minute or until just thickened. If the sauce thickens too much, you can always thin it with water.

11. Add vareniki, in batches if needed, to the pot of water (be careful not to overfill).. Once the vareniki float to the top, simmer them for an additional 5 minutes. If using frozen vareniki, it may take a few minutes longer for them to float to the top. Remove the vareniki from the pot and serve immediately. 

12. Top the vareniki with sour cream and cherry sauce. 

One-Bowl Tzimmes Cake

Tzimmes cakes, muffins, and desserts pop up in community cookbooks, cooking blogs, and even on the popular Food Network competition show “Chopped.” It’s not surprising – American tzimmes is often sweet, made with many of the ingredients that can be found in a classic carrot cake — like carrots, cinnamon, and dried fruit. And tzimmes is just one dish in a longstanding Ashkenazi tradition of sides and desserts made from carrots, like carrot rings, kugels, and carrot puddings. 

Growing up, tzimmes was served for special occasions; it was always made with simmered, very soft carrots, with orange juice concentrate mixed in. At Thanksgiving, sweet potatoes were swapped for carrots, making for a non-traditional, very Ashkenazi side dish at the table. As I began hosting Jewish holidays at my own table, my tzimmes recipe evolved over the years to include carrots drizzled with honey, tossed with ginger and cardamom, studded with dates, and roasted in the oven to give the dish more texture and caramelization. This recipe takes my favorite version of tzimmes and turns it into a simple one-bowl cake, with no special equipment or complicated techniques required. Think of it as a cross between honey cake and carrot cake, with an Ashkenazi twist. Of course, it’s perfect for Rosh Hashanah, but in my house, it’s a year-round treat.

Combining both sweet potato and carrot results in a slightly lighter texture than pure carrot, and there’s a burst of welcome tartness from the addition of dried cherries that rounds out the sweetness of honey and warming spices. You can top this dairy-free cake with powdered sugar or a simple glaze if desired. 

Note: This tzimmes cake tastes even better the next day, and lasts up to five days stored covered at room temperature. 

One-Bowl Tzimmes Cake
Serves 10-12

Ingredients:

• 2 large eggs

• ½ cup olive oil 

• ½ cup sugar

• ⅓ cup honey

• ⅓ cup orange juice 

• zest of 1 orange

• 1 tsp grated fresh ginger

• 1 tsp vanilla extract 

• 1¾ cup (230 g) all-purpose flour 

• 1¼ tsp baking powder

• 1 tsp cinnamon

• ½ tsp kosher salt

• ¼ tsp baking soda

• ¼ tsp cardamom (optional)

• 1 cup (150 g) shredded carrot, packed 

• 1 cup (100 g) shredded sweet potato, packed 

• ¼ cup dried tart cherries 

• ¼ cup chopped prunes, raisins or currants

• powdered sugar for topping (optional)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and line a 9” springform pan (or 9” cake pan) with parchment. You can also use a bundt or loaf pan, but baking times may be slightly longer. 

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, olive oil, sugar, honey, orange juice, orange zest, fresh ginger and vanilla extract. 

Into the same bowl, using a mesh sieve or flour sifter, add the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, baking soda and cardamom. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, stir until the dry and wet ingredients are just combined; be careful not to overmix. 

Add the shredded carrot, shredded sweet potato and dried fruit to the bowl. Fold the vegetables and fruit into the batter until just combined and evenly distributed. 

Transfer the batter to the greased and lined pan, and bake for 40 minutes, or until a small skewer or cake tester comes out clean.

Cool and top with powdered sugar or a simple glaze, if desired. 

Shawarma Eggplant

Shawarma eggplant is a satisfying plant-based entrée that has all the spices and flavors of your favorite grilled meat. This vegetarian main is versatile and customizable and can be prepared in advance, making it ideal for hosting. A slather of Michael Solomonv’s herbaceous, spicy Yemenite zhug on top adds the necessary zing and heat. For a little extra protein, drizzle the roasted eggplant with tahini, serve it on a swirl of labneh, or add roasted chickpeas on top. 

Olive oil is eggplant’s best friend, making it satisfyingly rich. First, you’ll brush oil onto the eggplant before it’s roasted, then drizzle it mid-bake, and again when it comes out of the oven. Crusted with spices, the eggplant emerges from the oven browned and fork-tender. You can swap the homemade shawarma spice blend with your favorite store-bought mix; and if you’re not an eggplant fan, you can swap it for thick-cut cauliflower steaks or large zucchini and summer squash.

Eggplant Shawarma with Zhug 
Serves 6

For the shawarma spice blend:

• 1½ tsp ground coriander

• 1½ tsp ground cumin 

• 1½ tsp sweet paprika

• 1 tsp turmeric 

• 1 tsp garlic powder

• ½ tsp red pepper flakes or Aleppo pepper (optional)

• ¼ tsp ground allspice 

• ¼ tsp smoked paprika 

• 1 tsp brown sugar (optional)

For the eggplant:

• 3 large eggplants (2½-3 lb)

•  ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling

• salt, as needed 

• chopped parsley, mint or cilantro, for garnish

Directions:

1. Start by slicing your eggplants in half from top to bottom. Score the eggplant diagonally in a crosshatch pattern, slicing toward the bottom without piercing all the way through. Generously salt, then rub salt into the scored eggplant halves. Let the eggplants sit while the oven preheats and you prep the rest of the ingredients, at least 20 minutes. 

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 

3. For the shawarma spice blend, whisk everything together in a small bowl. Alternatively use 3 Tbsp of your favorite shawarma spice blend, and add the brown sugar to the blend. 

4. Once the oven is preheated and the eggplant has rested, pat the tops of the eggplant dry, then brush each half of the eggplant with oil until the entire ¼ cup of oil is absorbed evenly. 

5. Rub about 1½ teaspoons of the spice blend into each of the 6 halves of the eggplant. Top with a drizzle of olive oil. 

6. Roast the eggplant for 30 minutes, then drizzle with more oil. Roast for an additional 20-30 minutes, or until deep golden brown and completely tender. Cooking times may vary depending on your oven and the size of the eggplant; begin to check for doneness after 40 minutes. 

7. While the eggplant is roasting, prepare the zhug, if desired. 

8. Drizzle the eggplant with oil just prior to serving, and garnish with fresh herbs. Eggplant can be made in advance, stored in the refrigerator, and reheated in a covered baking dish until warm. 

Feta Phyllo Triangles Drizzled with Honey

Tiropitakia, “little cheese pies” in Greek, are feta-filled, phyllo-wrapped bundles. They come in a variety of shapes, and are often formed into triangles. The Greek-speaking Romaniote Jewish community from the Eastern Mediterranean is known for preparing a range of phyllo and cheese-stuffed pastries for holidays and Shabbat. Thankfully, their recipes have been documented in the “Cookbook of the Jews of Greece” by Nicholas Savroulakis, one of my favorite regional Jewish cookbooks.

When they’re formed into triangles, they’re perfect for Purim as they resemble Haman’s triangular hat (or, according to Israelis, his ears) in the same manner as hamantaschen. These feta phyllo bundles benefit from the addition of sweet floral honey, a satisfying contrast to the savory, tangy feta filling, nutty sesame topping and buttery, crackly exterior. 

Feta and Honey Phyllo Triangles
Makes 18 pastries

Ingredients:

• 8 oz (225 g) feta

• 1 large egg

• ¼ cup Greek yogurt or labneh

• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish 

• ½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted or substitute with non-dairy butter or oil

• 8 oz phyllo, about 18 9x14-inch sheets

• ¼ cup sesame seeds, or as needed

• ⅓ cup honey

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

2. In a bowl, combine the feta, egg, yogurt and 1 Tbsp of chopped mint. Set aside your filling.

3. In a small pot on the stove, or in the microwave, melt the butter.

4. Unwrap your phyllo. If using large 18”x14” sheets, cut them in half so each sheet is 9”x14.” Take one sheet of phyllo, and orient it vertically, like a sheet of paper onto a clean surface. Working quickly, brush the top of the sheet with the melted butter. As you form the pastries, keep your stack of phyllo covered with a lightly damp cloth so it doesn’t dry out.

5. Place 1 Tbsp of the feta filling into the bottom center of the sheet, horizontally, leaving about ½ an inch from the bottom. Fold the right side a third over the filling, then fold the opposite left side over the filling, and the phyllo will now be a long strip about 3” wide and 14” long. 

6. Fold the bottom corner up and over the mixture, forming a triangle and encasing the filling. Continue to fold the triangle upon itself, from side to side, until you’ve used the entire sheet of phyllo. Place the triangle onto the parchment paper and continue the process with the rest of the filling and phyllo.

7. Brush all of the formed triangles with melted butter, and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds. (Freeze at this point, if desired.)

8. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until deep golden brown (frozen triangles may take slightly longer to bake). While the triangles are baking, heat up the honey in a small saucepan.

9. Once baked, drizzle the honey over the triangles, and serve warm. If making ahead, wait to drizzle on the honey just before serving. 

Seattle-Sytle Sheet Pan Teriykai Chicken

Growing up in Seattle, every Friday night we ate nearly the same menu: chicken soup, roast chicken slathered in teriyaki sauce, a starchy side, and salad. We always had a large bottle of Yoshida teriyaki sauce in the fridge, a distinctive fixture in the side door.

Teriyaki chicken is an iconic Seattle dish, and it’s typically served with steamed rice and an iceberg lettuce salad with gingery, tangy dressing. It wasn’t until I moved away that I discovered not every city is teeming with great teriyaki shops. As I became curious about what makes Pacific Northwest Jewish cuisine distinctive, I asked myself, why were we eating teriyaki chicken for Shabbat dinner?

Teriyaki is a traditional Japanese style of cooking where a protein is cooked over a flame while it is basted in a sauce made of soy sauce, sugar, sake and/or mirin; “yaki” means grill, and “teri” means shine. The sticky, sweet teriyaki sauce most Americans are familiar with was developed by Japanese American immigrants. Seattle’s version of teriyaki deviates from its Japanese roots thanks to a man named Toshihiro Kasahara. In 1976, Kasahara opened Toshi’s Teriyaki Restaurant, which quickly became a wildly successful Seattle lunch spot. Kasahara inspired a wave of teriyaki establishments across the city and the region, helping make the dish ubiquitous in the Pacific Northwest. Seattle-style teriyaki is loaded with ginger and garlic, and instead of basting the meat, teriyaki is more often made by marinating the meat in sauce overnight. The store-bought sauce my family used, which became popular nationally, was also developed by a Seattle resident, Kyoto-born Junki Yoshida.

This recipe is designed to give you all the flavors and char that great teriyaki chicken offers, with the ease of preparing a complete meal on a sheet pan. The sauce is salty, thick, gingery and sweet, and as the chicken cooks, it releases its juices and flavors to the surrounding vegetables. For this recipe, you can substitute homemade sauce for your favorite premade bottle, and you can ditch the oven and cook this on the grill for extra char. Served with a steaming heap of short grain rice, it makes a delicious, simple meal for Shabbat, or any day of the week. The dish reheats well in the microwave, stovetop or oven.

Note: You can swap drumsticks for chicken thighs, but if you would like to swap for boneless, skinless breasts the cook time may be slightly longer.

Seattle-Style Sheet Pan Teriyaki Chicken
Serves 4

Ingredients:
For the teriyaki sauce:

• 1 cup soy sauce

• ⅓ cup mirin

• ⅓ cup brown sugar

• 4 cloves garlic, minced

• 1-2 Tbsp fresh ginger, minced fine

• 1 Tbsp cornstarch + 1½ Tbsp water

For the chicken:

• 2 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs

• 1 head broccoli (about 1 lb)

• 1 red onion

• 1 large bell pepper

• oil, as needed

• salt and pepper, as needed

• sesame seeds, for garnish

Directions:
1. For the teriyaki sauce, whisk together the soy sauce, mirin, brown sugar, garlic and ginger.
2. Add the chicken to a bowl or container, pour ¾ cups of the teriyaki sauce (about half) over the chicken — reserve the remaining ¾ cup of sauce. Allow the chicken to marinate for at least 20 minutes while you preheat the oven and prep the remaining ingredients. Alternatively, you can cover the chicken and marinate it in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment, foil or a silicone baking mat.
4. Cut your broccoli into even-sized florets, about 2-3” in size. Slice your onion into thick 1” wedges. Slice the bell pepper into thick 2” wedges. Transfer the vegetables onto the baking sheet, drizzle with oil and lightly season with salt and pepper; you do not need a lot of seasoning as the teriyaki sauce is salty. Toss the vegetables until evenly coated in the oil.
5. Place the marinated chicken on top of the vegetables. Cook in the oven for 20-22 minutes, or until the chicken is almost fully cooked (about 150°F).
6. While the chicken is cooking, in a small bowl or cup combine the cornstarch and water. Add the remaining teriyaki sauce to a small pot. Bring the sauce up to a simmer, add the cornstarch slurry and let it thicken and cook for 2-3 minutes.
7. Remove the chicken from the oven and turn on the oven’s broiler. Brush each piece of chicken with thickened sauce. Broil the chicken and vegetables for 2-3 minutes, or until the chicken is slightly charred on top. Keep an eye on your chicken so that it does not burn.
8. Slice the chicken thighs, top with sesame seeds and drizzle on any remaining teriyaki sauce over the top, if desired. 

Turkey Chili

Normally, I wouldn’t post a recipe without a photo of the finished dish… but in this week’s episode of the Food Friends podcast, co-hosted by me and Kari Lauritzen, we talk all about our client’s favorite dishes from our time working as personal chefs.

My recipe for turkey chili came up in our conversation, and Kari asked if I could send her the recipe asap! It was scribbled into a notebook, with various stains on the pages, and I sent off a pic for her to decipher (thankfully, it was a success!).

And now, here it is for you… typed up (albeit sans photo), and just in time for you to make it if you’d like to try it out after hearing the episode. This recipe is absolutely meant as a guide — I rarely make my chili exactly the same way twice. Happy cooking and eating!

Turkey Chili
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 lb ground turkey
1 large yellow or white onion, diced small
4-6 cloves garlic, minced fine
1 Tbsp chili powder
1 Tbsp cocoa powder (optional)
2 tsps onion powder
2 tsps garlic powder
1-2 tsps ground cumin
1-2 tsps ground coriander
1 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle powder
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 28 oz can whole or crushed tomatoes
4-5 cups cooked/partially cooked beans (pinto, whipple, red, good mother stallard, or mix of your favorite chili beans)
1-2 Tbsps maple syrup or agave
1-2 cups broth or water (or more if needed)
1 can beer, lager or brown ale (optional)
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, brown the turkey (season with salt when you add it to the pot). Transfer the cooked turkey to a bowl and reserve.

Add a drizzle of oil to the same pot and lower the heat to medium, then add the onion and sauté for 4-6 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and sauté for 1-2 more minutes, or until fragrant. Add the spices and tomato paste, and stir and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the cooked turkey, canned tomatoes, beans, maple syrup, and beer (if using) to the pot — allow the beer to simmer for a few minutes, then add the broth/water. The chili will thicken and reduce as it cooks; I like the mixture to start out with slightly more liquid than I think it needs. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Simmer for 45-60 minutes on low, and add more liquid at any point if the chili is too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning or spices.

Serve topped with chopped onions, scallions, cilantro, crumbled tortilla chips, or your favorite chili toppings.

Chili always tastes better the next day, freezes well, and keeps for up to one week in the fridge.

Gogol Mogol (Kogel Mogel)

Whenever I had the slightest hint of a sore throat, the remedy in our Ashkenazi Jewish home was gogol mogol (kogel mogel in Polish). Gogol mogol is a Yiddish word for a shtetl recipe that dates back to 17th-century Central Europe. It’s a simple, sweet treat made with egg yolks and sugar that’s similar to a non-alcoholic version of eggnog or zabaione. 

Gogol mogol is considered both a dessert and a home remedy for colds and throat aches. There is some science behind its healing properties – an Israeli internal medicine doctor found that warm gogol mogol has an antibiotic effect that can speed up recovery for inflamed throats. Even Barbara Streisand’s mother allegedly believed in gogol mogol’s curative properties, and she tried to strengthen her daughter’s vocal cords by serving her this classic concoction. 

Gogol mogol’s origins are unknown, but the concoction may have been inspired by the “Shuclhan Aruch,” the 16th-century Sephardic Jewish code of law, where it is written that one can soothe their voice on Shabbat with raw egg or sweet syrup. Over time, gogol mogol became widely popular across Poland and the former Soviet Union, particularly during interwar periods when sweets were scarce.

There are countless variations of gogol mogol, but it is traditionally made by beating raw egg yolks with sugar or honey until they become thick, light and frothy. My father taught me to use a ratio of one tablespoon for every egg yolk. Often, warm milk is streamed into the egg mixture to make it thinner and easier to consume. Popular additions include vanilla, lemon or cocoa powder; and gogol mogol can be served as an adult beverage with the inclusion of rum, brandy, or cognac. Traditionally it’s served in drinking glasses, but like zabaione, it can also be served with fruit or a warm cake. 

This comforting, cozy, sweet dessert is sure to warm you up in the dark of winter.

Gogol Mogol
Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 4 egg yolks

• ¼ cup sugar or honey

• ¼ cup hot milk

Optional additions:

• 2 shots of rum or brandy

•  2 Tbsp lemon juice + 1 tsp zest

•  2 tsp cocoa powder

Directions: 

1. Using a handheld mixer with the whisk attachment, or using a whisk, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until lightened and thick, and doubled in size – about 3-4 minutes with the mixer, or 6-8 minutes by hand. 

2. Warm up the milk until just hot, and then stream it into the egg mixture, whisking continuously. If including any of the optional additions, whisk them in at this point. Serve immediately.

Everything Bagel Latkes!

Latkes for breakfast are one of life’s great joys, and Shannon Sarna had the brilliant idea to take the flavors of a morning everything bagel and turn that into latke form. We collaborated on this recipe for The Nosher, and by the way, her new book Modern Jewish Comfort Food is a must-have!

With these latkes, you get all the same satisfying flavors that you can get at your local bagel shop, but with the added bonus of fried potato. Here, crispy traditional latkes get a boost of flavor with the addition of everything bagel seasoning and fresh garlic, and then are topped with herbaceous lemony cream cheese topping, and a luxurious piece of salmon. These are rich, delicious, and festive. These can be served as a celebratory to start the day, as a passed hors d'oeuvres at a gathering, or even as the main entrée of a Hanukkah meal. Latkes and lox will always be a match made in heaven. 

Everything Bagel Latkes
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
For the latkes-

• 3 lbs potatoes, Yukon Gold or Russet

• 1 small onion, white or yellow

• 3 large eggs

• 3 cloves garlic, minced fine

• ¾ cup potato starch or all purpose flour

• 2 Tablespoons everything bagel seasoning 

• 2 tsps kosher salt (1 tsp if your everything Bbagel seasoning includes salt)

For the toppings-

• 6 oz cream cheese, at room temperature

• 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chives or scallion

• 1 Tablespoon lemon juice

• Thinly sliced smoked salmon (about 4-6 oz) 

• Everything bagel season, as needed for garnish

Directions:

1. Peel your potatoes, and keep them in a large bowl of cold water until ready to shred them. Peel the onion and cut it in half.

2. Using the medium-sized whole on a box grater, or the grating attachment on a food processor, shred the onions and potatoes.

3. Squeeze out excess moisture from the potatoes using a clean kitchen towel, cheesecloth, or paper towels. Add the strained potatoes and onions back to the large bowl.

4. Add the eggs, garlic, potato starch, everything bagel seasoning, and salt to the large bowl. Mix until well combined. 

5. To fry the latkes, fill a large skillet with a ¼” depth of oil. Prepare a sheet pan with a rack or paper towels on top. Heat the oil on medium-high, until a drop of latke mixture sizzles when added. Add about a ¼ cup of latke mixture to the hot oil, press lightly down to form an evenly-thick circular shape. Fry on each side until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes per side. You may have to lower and raise the heat as needed to keep the oil from getting too hot or cold. Once golden brown on both sides, transfer to your lined baking sheet and sprinkle with a little extra salt. 

6. To make the cream cheese topping: combine the cream cheese, dill, chives, and lemon juice in a small bowl. 

7. To assemble: top each latke with the cream cheese topping, a small piece of smoked salmon, and a sprinkle of everything bagel seasoning. 

Cheesy Latkes!

In the dark of winter, Hanukkah brings in the light… and the indulgent foods. Stuffing latkes with cheese is unquestionably gilding the lily, but isn’t that what Hanukkah’s all about? These latkes are crispy on the outside and ooey gooey on the inside. 

The flour added to the potato batter helps the latkes hold their shape, as does freezing them for 10-15 minutes before frying. The cream cheese added to the shredded cheese mixture makes stuffing the latkes easier, and also offers a subtle tang that cuts the richness. Like all latkes, these are best eaten straight from the pan (plate optional).

Cheese-Stuffed Latkes/Super Cheesy Latkes
Makes 12-16 latkes, serves 4-6

Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 30 min 

Ingredients:
For the latkes:

• 3 lbs Yukon Gold or russet potatoes

• 1 small yellow or white onion

• 3 eggs

• 1½ cups all-purpose flour

• 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more as needed 

• Oil (sunflower, avocado, canola or vegetable), as needed 

For the cheese filling:

• ½ cup (4 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature  

• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

• 1 cup shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese

Directions:

1. Line a large kitchen bowl with a clean kitchen towel or double-stacked paper towels. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

2. Peel the potatoes and onion. Grate them using a box grater or the shredding attachment on a food processor. Add them to the lined bowl, and then squeeze out the excess liquid using the towel. Discard the liquid, then add the squeezed-out potato and onion back into the bowl. 

3. Add the eggs, flour, and salt to the potato mixture. Combine until evenly mixed; the potatoes should clump together when you press them into your hand.

4. Take about 2 Tbsp of the potato mixture and press it into a circle in the palm of your hand. Add 1 heaping tsp of the cheese mixture into the center of the potato mixture. Top with an additional Tbsp of potato mixture, and then form into a round latke shape, cheese encased on both sides by the potato. Place on the lined baking sheet, and continue to form the latkes with the remaining batter and cheese.

5. Freeze the latkes for 10-15 minutes, but not for much longer. A short freeze will help them hold their shape more easily as you fry them. While the latkes are chilling, prepare for frying.

6. Add about ¼” oil to a large, heavy-bottomed skillet. Over medium-high heat, heat the oil until very hot – it should sizzle when a small amount of batter is added to the pan. Place a wire rack on a sheet pan, or line a sheet pan with paper towels. 

7. Add 3-5 latkes to the oil depending on the size of the pan; be careful not to overcrowd the latkes, which will cause them to steam instead of brown. Fry the latkes on each side until golden and crispy, about 3-5 minutes per side. Transfer to the wire rack to allow any excess oil to drain off the latke. Sprinkle with a little extra salt while they’re still hot.

8. Serve warm with applesauce, sour cream or your desired toppings.