Sheet-Pan Crispy Harissa Tofu, Chickpeas, and Broccolini

I always keep a jar of harissa paste in my fridge as a quick way to add flavor to simple protein or vegetable dishes. NY Shuk makes my favorite go-to premade harissa, but thankfully this condiment is so popular that you can even find it at many grocery stores. Each brand has its own flavor profile and spice level; taste your harissa and assess its heat before adding it in the amount indicated in the recipe.

Like all sheet pan meals, this is a simple cook-it-all-together kind of dinner. If you take a little time to press your tofu before roasting it, it will end up crispy-edged. This recipe can be doubled and placed on two sheet pans if you’re cooking for a larger family or group. Depending on your sides, this is an abundant meal for two or a modest meal for 4.

Sheet-Pan Crispy Harissa Tofu, Chickpeas, and Broccolini

Serves 2-4
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:
1 (14-ounce) container extra firm tofu
1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, or 1½ cups cooked chickpeas
¼ cup harissa paste, divided, or to taste (I use NY Shuk brand)
¼ cup potato starch or cornstarch
1 bunch broccolini or rapini, ends trimmed (or 1 head of broccoli cut into florets)
Salt and pepper, to taste
Oil, as needed

Directions:

1. Drain the tofu, then wrap it in a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. Place a heavy skillet, or another heavy flat object on top to press the tofu and remove its excess moisture. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes. While the tofu is being pressed, drain a can of chickpeas and place it on a separate clean kitchen towel or paper towel to remove excess moisture.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F, and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

3. Slice the tofu into equal-sized cubes or pieces. Add them to a medium bowl with 2 Tablespoons of harissa (or more/less, depending on the spice level of your harissa and preference), 2-3 teaspoons of oil, salt, and pepper. Toss gently so the tofu pieces are all evenly coated. Add the potato starch to a small bowl, and dip each piece of tofu in the starch, so that it is covered on each side. Place the dipped tofu onto the baking sheet. 

4. Add the chickpeas to the same bowl the tofu was in with 2 more Tablespoons of harissa, 2 teaspoons of oil, and salt and pepper. Toss the chickpeas until they are well-coated. Transfer them to the sheet pan so that they are spread out around the tofu. Make sure the tofu also has room to brown and isn’t cramped too closely to the other tofu or chickpeas.

5. While the tofu and chickpeas are in the oven, toss the broccolini in the same bowl, with an additional generous drizzle of oil, salt, and pepper. 

6. Roast the tofu and chickpeas for 15 minutes, or until starting to crisp and brown on the bottom. Take the sheet pan out of the oven, and flip the tofu pieces over. Rearrange the tofu and the chickpeas so they fill only ⅔ of the sheet pan. Add the broccolini to the remaining ⅓ of the sheet pan. Place back in the oven for an additional 10-15 minutes, or until the broccolini is fully cooked and the tofu is crisped and browned on both sides.

7. Serve immediately with a simple side like rice, quinoa, or orzo. Tahini sauce also makes an excellent topping for this dish along with fresh herbs of your choice.

Easy Roast Turkey for Thanksgiving

I have been using my mother’s method for roasting turkey since I began hosting Thanksgiving in my twenties. The main difference between this and other roast turkey recipes is that you cover the bird for part of the cooking time. The skin may not get super crispy, but it stays incredibly juicy and flavorful. No bland dry turkey here. In recent years, I’ve been doing a dry brine a day or two before roasting for added flavor and tenderness, but you can skip that step if desired.

And all that said… when in doubt, just follow Tante Marie’s advice.

Thanksgiving Roast Turkey

Ingredients:
1 14-16 lb turkey, giblets removed
3 Tbsps kosher salt
1 Tbsp brown sugar
3 onions, quartered
3 carrots, cut into large chunks
3-4 apples or quinces, quartered
1 head garlic, halved
1 bunch thyme, rosemary, sage, or all three
1 large lemon, halved
1-2 cups white wine or chicken/turkey broth
Olive oil, as needed

Remove the giblets and anything inside the turkey.

Combine the salt and brown sugar to make a dry brine. Generously season the outside of the bird and the inside cavity with the brine. Place in a roasting pan/baking dish and refrigerate, uncovered, for 24-48 hours before roasting. If you do not want to dry brine your bird, simply season it with the salt and sugar mixture on the day of roasting.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

To the bottom of your roasting pan add the onion, carrot, and apples/quince. Place the turkey on top of the aromatics.

Stuff the inside of the turkey with the lemon, garlic, and herbs.

Rub the turkey with oil. Add the wine or stock to the roasting dish.

Cover the roasting dish tightly with foil.

Place in the oven, estimate about 1 hour for every 5 pounds. After half of the cooking time, remove the foil and uncover the turkey. Baste it with any juices in the bottom of the roasting dish. Continue to baste and check on the bird every 30-45 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 165°F when tested with a meat thermometer.

Let the turkey rest for at least 30 minutes before carving, and up to an hour. While it's resting I throw other things in the oven that need to get roasted or heated. 

Carve and serve!

Apple and Honey Dumplings

I first shared this story and recipe with The Nosher in 2023.

Old-fashioned apple dumplings are made with peeled and cored-out apples that get encased in pastry or biscuit crust and are baked until golden and tender. This dessert has remained popular in the United States for hundreds of years, from New England to the deep South.

The concept of delicate dough plus apples can also be found in the Czech Republic, where the dumplings are also sometimes made with whole plums or apricots. In Germany and Ukraine, you might find apple dumplings that are made with dough that is simmered instead of baked. A dumpling is still a dumpling whether it’s baked or boiled, and a dumpling is universally loved across cultures and countries.

These apple dumplings work best with very small, tart firm varieties like Granny Smith or Winesap. The flavor of the apple deepens as it becomes fork-tender in its buttery blanket of dough, and it’s sweetened by a honey sauce that can be whisked together in minutes. Best of all, this dessert serves a crowd of eight, can be made up to two days ahead, and can be easily reheated when you’re ready to serve. 

Apple & Honey Dumplings 
Serves 8

Prep time:15-30 minutes
Cook time: 55-60 minutes
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients
For the dumplings:
8 small, chilled apples, 100-130 g each (Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Honeycrisp or an heirloom apple)
4 tsps unsalted butter or plant-based butter
2 tsps cinnamon
2 9” pie crusts, store bought or from scratch (recipe attached)

For the sauce:
1 cup water
½ cup honey 
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ tsp salt

For the double crust pie dough (optional):
2½ cups (340 g) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 cup (225 g) cold butter, cubed
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
5-6 Tbps ice water

Directions:
Start by making the pastry (optional, if using store-bought pie crust skip to Direction 4). In a food processor: pulse the flour, sugar and salt together. Add the cubed cold butter and pulse until pea-sized crumbs form. Add the apple cider vinegar and 5 Tbsp ice water and pulse, it will look a little bit crumbly at first and then as you pulse it will begin to form into a ball. If it doesn’t clump together easily, add another Tbsp water, or as needed. Be careful not to overmix and once it forms a bowl, transfer it out of the processor and divide into two equal-sized pieces.

By hand: whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the cubed cold butter and combine with the flour with a pastry cutter or by hand until pea-sized crumbs of dough form. Add the apple cider vinegar and ice water and incorporate quickly with your hands until a ball of dough is formed. Be careful not to overmix. Once the ball is formed, divide the dough into two equal-sized pieces. 

Form each piece of dough into a square shape, and tightly cover with plastic wrap or a beeswax wrap. Allow the dough to chill for at least 1 hour, or overnight before using. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13” baking dish.

Peel and core your cold apples; it is easier to wrap the dough around the apple if they are chilled as opposed to at room temperature. 

Roll out one piece of dough into a large, thin 12x12” square. Divide the dough into 4 even-sized 6x6” squares. Repeat the process with the second piece of dough.

Place a cored apple upright into the center of each square. Add a ½ tsp of butter to the center of the apple. Sprinkle the tops of the apple with cinnamon, about ¼ teaspoon per apple. Bring the corners of the dough up and over the apple, firmly pressing the edges together to fully encase the dough. If there are any scraps of dough, shape them into leaf shapes to decoratively top the dumplings. 

Place the apple dumplings into the greased baking dish, and bake for 30 minutes.

While the apple dumplings are baking, make the sauce by combining the water, honey, sugar, and salt in a small pan. Bring to a simmer, and simmer until sugar is fully dissolved, about 3-4 minutes. 

Pour the sauce over the apple dumplings, then place them back in the oven to bake for an additional 25-30 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown, and the apples are tender when tested with a skewer or thin knife. 

Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes, then serve warm or room temperature. 

To make ahead: Slightly underbake the dumplings for 10 minutes. Let them cool, then store covered with foil in the fridge. The next day, reheat them covered in foil for 10-15 minutes in a 350°F oven. Apple dumplings can be made up to 2 days in advance of serving. 

Yemenite White Bean Soup with Zhoug

This classic Yemenite white bean soup is designed to be topped with herby, cardamom-rich zhoug. Zhoug is spicy, floral, and very springy — it’s worth a try if you’ve never had it before, even if you’re slightly spice-averse (I recommend using less jalapeno if that’s the case). While you can make this soup with canned beans, if you take the time to cook up beans from scratch and save their cooking liquid, that bean broth adds tons of flavor to the final soup.

Yemenite White Bean Soup with Zhoug ( hot sauce)
Originally published on The Nosher
Serves 6

For the soup-

• 1 cup dry white/Cannellini beans, or 2 15oz cans (about 3.5-4 cups)

• Olive oil, as needed

• 1 large onion, diced small

• 1 large leek, diced small

• 1 carrot, diced small

• 1 celery, diced small

• 1 Roma tomato chopped small (or 1 tablespoon tomato paste)

• 6 cloves garlic, peeled and divided

• 2 large bay leaves, divided

• 3 sprigs thyme, leaves removed from stem

• 10 cups (2.5 Qts) liquid (chicken broth, vegetable broth, or water)

• A spoonful of finely chopped parsley or cilantro stems from the zhug

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Juice of ½ a lemon, or to taste

For the zhoug-

• 5-10 small Jalapenos (5 for mild, 10 for hot), sliced in half and deseeded 

• 1 bunch cilantro

• 1 bunch parsley

• 1 large clove garlic, peeled

• 1 tablespoon ground cardamom

• 2 teaspoons caraway seeds (optional)

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• Juice of ½ a lemon

• ¼ cup oil (a mild neutral oil: light olive oil, sunflower, canola, etc. 

Directions:
For the soup:
If using dry beans: soak the beans overnight. In a large pot or in an Instapot, cover the dried beans with 2-3 inches of water. Add a large bay leaf and 4 peeled cloves of garlic to the pot. Simmer beans until tender. 

To a large pot add a generous drizzle of olive oil over medium heat, and add the diced onion, leek, carrot, and celery. Sauté the vegetables until softened, about 6-8 minutes. Add the chopped tomato (or tomato paste if using), 2 peeled garlic cloves to the pot, 1 bay leaf, thyme, and chopped herb stems to the pot. Add the liquid to the pot; I like to add a few cups of the bean cooking liquid in addition to the broth if I’ve made the beans from dried. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, and allow to simmer for 20 minutes. 

Add the cooked or canned beans to the pot and simmer for another 20-25 minutes. Taste, and season accordingly. Turn off the heat, and add the lemon juice. 

At this point, you can serve the soup as is. I however prefer to remove about a third of the soup from the pot. I blend the remaining soup until light and creamy. I add the remaining soup back to the pot. This makes the soup smooth and creamy, with pops of beans and vegetables. Serve topped with as much zhug as desired. 

For the zhoug:
To a food processor add the deseeded jalapenos, parsley, cilantro, garlic, cardamom, caraway, and salt. Pulse until finely chopped. If you don’t have a food processor, you can also chop the ingredients finely by hand. Transfer the chopped chili and herb mixture to a bowl. Add the oil and lemon juice and stir until combined. Zhoug will last up to 2 weeks in a well-sealed container, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months. 

Feta Phyllo Triangles Drizzled with Honey

Tiropitakia, “little cheese pies” in Greek, are feta-filled, phyllo-wrapped bundles. They come in a variety of shapes, and are often formed into triangles. The Greek-speaking Romaniote Jewish community from the Eastern Mediterranean is known for preparing a range of phyllo and cheese-stuffed pastries for holidays and Shabbat. Thankfully, their recipes have been documented in the “Cookbook of the Jews of Greece” by Nicholas Savroulakis, one of my favorite regional Jewish cookbooks.

When they’re formed into triangles, they’re perfect for Purim as they resemble Haman’s triangular hat (or, according to Israelis, his ears) in the same manner as hamantaschen. These feta phyllo bundles benefit from the addition of sweet floral honey, a satisfying contrast to the savory, tangy feta filling, nutty sesame topping and buttery, crackly exterior. 

Feta and Honey Phyllo Triangles
Makes 18 pastries

Ingredients:

• 8 oz (225 g) feta

• 1 large egg

• ¼ cup Greek yogurt or labneh

• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish 

• ½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted or substitute with non-dairy butter or oil

• 8 oz phyllo, about 18 9x14-inch sheets

• ¼ cup sesame seeds, or as needed

• ⅓ cup honey

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

2. In a bowl, combine the feta, egg, yogurt and 1 Tbsp of chopped mint. Set aside your filling.

3. In a small pot on the stove, or in the microwave, melt the butter.

4. Unwrap your phyllo. If using large 18”x14” sheets, cut them in half so each sheet is 9”x14.” Take one sheet of phyllo, and orient it vertically, like a sheet of paper onto a clean surface. Working quickly, brush the top of the sheet with the melted butter. As you form the pastries, keep your stack of phyllo covered with a lightly damp cloth so it doesn’t dry out.

5. Place 1 Tbsp of the feta filling into the bottom center of the sheet, horizontally, leaving about ½ an inch from the bottom. Fold the right side a third over the filling, then fold the opposite left side over the filling, and the phyllo will now be a long strip about 3” wide and 14” long. 

6. Fold the bottom corner up and over the mixture, forming a triangle and encasing the filling. Continue to fold the triangle upon itself, from side to side, until you’ve used the entire sheet of phyllo. Place the triangle onto the parchment paper and continue the process with the rest of the filling and phyllo.

7. Brush all of the formed triangles with melted butter, and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds. (Freeze at this point, if desired.)

8. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until deep golden brown (frozen triangles may take slightly longer to bake). While the triangles are baking, heat up the honey in a small saucepan.

9. Once baked, drizzle the honey over the triangles, and serve warm. If making ahead, wait to drizzle on the honey just before serving. 

Seattle-Sytle Sheet Pan Teriykai Chicken

Growing up in Seattle, every Friday night we ate nearly the same menu: chicken soup, roast chicken slathered in teriyaki sauce, a starchy side, and salad. We always had a large bottle of Yoshida teriyaki sauce in the fridge, a distinctive fixture in the side door.

Teriyaki chicken is an iconic Seattle dish, and it’s typically served with steamed rice and an iceberg lettuce salad with gingery, tangy dressing. It wasn’t until I moved away that I discovered not every city is teeming with great teriyaki shops. As I became curious about what makes Pacific Northwest Jewish cuisine distinctive, I asked myself, why were we eating teriyaki chicken for Shabbat dinner?

Teriyaki is a traditional Japanese style of cooking where a protein is cooked over a flame while it is basted in a sauce made of soy sauce, sugar, sake and/or mirin; “yaki” means grill, and “teri” means shine. The sticky, sweet teriyaki sauce most Americans are familiar with was developed by Japanese American immigrants. Seattle’s version of teriyaki deviates from its Japanese roots thanks to a man named Toshihiro Kasahara. In 1976, Kasahara opened Toshi’s Teriyaki Restaurant, which quickly became a wildly successful Seattle lunch spot. Kasahara inspired a wave of teriyaki establishments across the city and the region, helping make the dish ubiquitous in the Pacific Northwest. Seattle-style teriyaki is loaded with ginger and garlic, and instead of basting the meat, teriyaki is more often made by marinating the meat in sauce overnight. The store-bought sauce my family used, which became popular nationally, was also developed by a Seattle resident, Kyoto-born Junki Yoshida.

This recipe is designed to give you all the flavors and char that great teriyaki chicken offers, with the ease of preparing a complete meal on a sheet pan. The sauce is salty, thick, gingery and sweet, and as the chicken cooks, it releases its juices and flavors to the surrounding vegetables. For this recipe, you can substitute homemade sauce for your favorite premade bottle, and you can ditch the oven and cook this on the grill for extra char. Served with a steaming heap of short grain rice, it makes a delicious, simple meal for Shabbat, or any day of the week. The dish reheats well in the microwave, stovetop or oven.

Note: You can swap drumsticks for chicken thighs, but if you would like to swap for boneless, skinless breasts the cook time may be slightly longer.

Seattle-Style Sheet Pan Teriyaki Chicken
Serves 4

Ingredients:
For the teriyaki sauce:

• 1 cup soy sauce

• ⅓ cup mirin

• ⅓ cup brown sugar

• 4 cloves garlic, minced

• 1-2 Tbsp fresh ginger, minced fine

• 1 Tbsp cornstarch + 1½ Tbsp water

For the chicken:

• 2 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs

• 1 head broccoli (about 1 lb)

• 1 red onion

• 1 large bell pepper

• oil, as needed

• salt and pepper, as needed

• sesame seeds, for garnish

Directions:
1. For the teriyaki sauce, whisk together the soy sauce, mirin, brown sugar, garlic and ginger.
2. Add the chicken to a bowl or container, pour ¾ cups of the teriyaki sauce (about half) over the chicken — reserve the remaining ¾ cup of sauce. Allow the chicken to marinate for at least 20 minutes while you preheat the oven and prep the remaining ingredients. Alternatively, you can cover the chicken and marinate it in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment, foil or a silicone baking mat.
4. Cut your broccoli into even-sized florets, about 2-3” in size. Slice your onion into thick 1” wedges. Slice the bell pepper into thick 2” wedges. Transfer the vegetables onto the baking sheet, drizzle with oil and lightly season with salt and pepper; you do not need a lot of seasoning as the teriyaki sauce is salty. Toss the vegetables until evenly coated in the oil.
5. Place the marinated chicken on top of the vegetables. Cook in the oven for 20-22 minutes, or until the chicken is almost fully cooked (about 150°F).
6. While the chicken is cooking, in a small bowl or cup combine the cornstarch and water. Add the remaining teriyaki sauce to a small pot. Bring the sauce up to a simmer, add the cornstarch slurry and let it thicken and cook for 2-3 minutes.
7. Remove the chicken from the oven and turn on the oven’s broiler. Brush each piece of chicken with thickened sauce. Broil the chicken and vegetables for 2-3 minutes, or until the chicken is slightly charred on top. Keep an eye on your chicken so that it does not burn.
8. Slice the chicken thighs, top with sesame seeds and drizzle on any remaining teriyaki sauce over the top, if desired. 

Turkey Chili

Normally, I wouldn’t post a recipe without a photo of the finished dish… but in this week’s episode of the Food Friends podcast, co-hosted by me and Kari Lauritzen, we talk all about our client’s favorite dishes from our time working as personal chefs.

My recipe for turkey chili came up in our conversation, and Kari asked if I could send her the recipe asap! It was scribbled into a notebook, with various stains on the pages, and I sent off a pic for her to decipher (thankfully, it was a success!).

And now, here it is for you… typed up (albeit sans photo), and just in time for you to make it if you’d like to try it out after hearing the episode. This recipe is absolutely meant as a guide — I rarely make my chili exactly the same way twice. Happy cooking and eating!

Turkey Chili
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 lb ground turkey
1 large yellow or white onion, diced small
4-6 cloves garlic, minced fine
1 Tbsp chili powder
1 Tbsp cocoa powder (optional)
2 tsps onion powder
2 tsps garlic powder
1-2 tsps ground cumin
1-2 tsps ground coriander
1 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle powder
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 28 oz can whole or crushed tomatoes
4-5 cups cooked/partially cooked beans (pinto, whipple, red, good mother stallard, or mix of your favorite chili beans)
1-2 Tbsps maple syrup or agave
1-2 cups broth or water (or more if needed)
1 can beer, lager or brown ale (optional)
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, brown the turkey (season with salt when you add it to the pot). Transfer the cooked turkey to a bowl and reserve.

Add a drizzle of oil to the same pot and lower the heat to medium, then add the onion and sauté for 4-6 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and sauté for 1-2 more minutes, or until fragrant. Add the spices and tomato paste, and stir and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the cooked turkey, canned tomatoes, beans, maple syrup, and beer (if using) to the pot — allow the beer to simmer for a few minutes, then add the broth/water. The chili will thicken and reduce as it cooks; I like the mixture to start out with slightly more liquid than I think it needs. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Simmer for 45-60 minutes on low, and add more liquid at any point if the chili is too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning or spices.

Serve topped with chopped onions, scallions, cilantro, crumbled tortilla chips, or your favorite chili toppings.

Chili always tastes better the next day, freezes well, and keeps for up to one week in the fridge.

Everything Bagel Latkes!

Latkes for breakfast are one of life’s great joys, and Shannon Sarna had the brilliant idea to take the flavors of a morning everything bagel and turn that into latke form. We collaborated on this recipe for The Nosher, and by the way, her new book Modern Jewish Comfort Food is a must-have!

With these latkes, you get all the same satisfying flavors that you can get at your local bagel shop, but with the added bonus of fried potato. Here, crispy traditional latkes get a boost of flavor with the addition of everything bagel seasoning and fresh garlic, and then are topped with herbaceous lemony cream cheese topping, and a luxurious piece of salmon. These are rich, delicious, and festive. These can be served as a celebratory to start the day, as a passed hors d'oeuvres at a gathering, or even as the main entrée of a Hanukkah meal. Latkes and lox will always be a match made in heaven. 

Everything Bagel Latkes
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
For the latkes-

• 3 lbs potatoes, Yukon Gold or Russet

• 1 small onion, white or yellow

• 3 large eggs

• 3 cloves garlic, minced fine

• ¾ cup potato starch or all purpose flour

• 2 Tablespoons everything bagel seasoning 

• 2 tsps kosher salt (1 tsp if your everything Bbagel seasoning includes salt)

For the toppings-

• 6 oz cream cheese, at room temperature

• 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chives or scallion

• 1 Tablespoon lemon juice

• Thinly sliced smoked salmon (about 4-6 oz) 

• Everything bagel season, as needed for garnish

Directions:

1. Peel your potatoes, and keep them in a large bowl of cold water until ready to shred them. Peel the onion and cut it in half.

2. Using the medium-sized whole on a box grater, or the grating attachment on a food processor, shred the onions and potatoes.

3. Squeeze out excess moisture from the potatoes using a clean kitchen towel, cheesecloth, or paper towels. Add the strained potatoes and onions back to the large bowl.

4. Add the eggs, garlic, potato starch, everything bagel seasoning, and salt to the large bowl. Mix until well combined. 

5. To fry the latkes, fill a large skillet with a ¼” depth of oil. Prepare a sheet pan with a rack or paper towels on top. Heat the oil on medium-high, until a drop of latke mixture sizzles when added. Add about a ¼ cup of latke mixture to the hot oil, press lightly down to form an evenly-thick circular shape. Fry on each side until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes per side. You may have to lower and raise the heat as needed to keep the oil from getting too hot or cold. Once golden brown on both sides, transfer to your lined baking sheet and sprinkle with a little extra salt. 

6. To make the cream cheese topping: combine the cream cheese, dill, chives, and lemon juice in a small bowl. 

7. To assemble: top each latke with the cream cheese topping, a small piece of smoked salmon, and a sprinkle of everything bagel seasoning. 

Cheesy Latkes!

In the dark of winter, Hanukkah brings in the light… and the indulgent foods. Stuffing latkes with cheese is unquestionably gilding the lily, but isn’t that what Hanukkah’s all about? These latkes are crispy on the outside and ooey gooey on the inside. 

The flour added to the potato batter helps the latkes hold their shape, as does freezing them for 10-15 minutes before frying. The cream cheese added to the shredded cheese mixture makes stuffing the latkes easier, and also offers a subtle tang that cuts the richness. Like all latkes, these are best eaten straight from the pan (plate optional).

Cheese-Stuffed Latkes/Super Cheesy Latkes
Makes 12-16 latkes, serves 4-6

Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 30 min 

Ingredients:
For the latkes:

• 3 lbs Yukon Gold or russet potatoes

• 1 small yellow or white onion

• 3 eggs

• 1½ cups all-purpose flour

• 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more as needed 

• Oil (sunflower, avocado, canola or vegetable), as needed 

For the cheese filling:

• ½ cup (4 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature  

• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

• 1 cup shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese

Directions:

1. Line a large kitchen bowl with a clean kitchen towel or double-stacked paper towels. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

2. Peel the potatoes and onion. Grate them using a box grater or the shredding attachment on a food processor. Add them to the lined bowl, and then squeeze out the excess liquid using the towel. Discard the liquid, then add the squeezed-out potato and onion back into the bowl. 

3. Add the eggs, flour, and salt to the potato mixture. Combine until evenly mixed; the potatoes should clump together when you press them into your hand.

4. Take about 2 Tbsp of the potato mixture and press it into a circle in the palm of your hand. Add 1 heaping tsp of the cheese mixture into the center of the potato mixture. Top with an additional Tbsp of potato mixture, and then form into a round latke shape, cheese encased on both sides by the potato. Place on the lined baking sheet, and continue to form the latkes with the remaining batter and cheese.

5. Freeze the latkes for 10-15 minutes, but not for much longer. A short freeze will help them hold their shape more easily as you fry them. While the latkes are chilling, prepare for frying.

6. Add about ¼” oil to a large, heavy-bottomed skillet. Over medium-high heat, heat the oil until very hot – it should sizzle when a small amount of batter is added to the pan. Place a wire rack on a sheet pan, or line a sheet pan with paper towels. 

7. Add 3-5 latkes to the oil depending on the size of the pan; be careful not to overcrowd the latkes, which will cause them to steam instead of brown. Fry the latkes on each side until golden and crispy, about 3-5 minutes per side. Transfer to the wire rack to allow any excess oil to drain off the latke. Sprinkle with a little extra salt while they’re still hot.

8. Serve warm with applesauce, sour cream or your desired toppings. 

Whitefish Salad

For the full article and more history on whitefish salad, head over to The Nosher!

There’s nothing wrong with traditional whitefish salad, but I love to add a few extra ingredients to my whitefish salad to brighten up its salty smoky flavors. For one, when I can’t find whole smoked whitefish, I use smoked trout or smoked Sable. Mayonnaise is essential, but I also add sour cream for tangy creamines (you can skip the dairy and substitute it with more mayo if desired). Fresh dill and parsley give the salad lightness, and lemon zest and juice add citrusy acidity and flavor. However you like to make it, you can never go wrong serving whitefish salad at your next holiday spread. 

SMOKED FISH SALAD 

Makes 2 cups/1 pint - Recipe can be doubled or tripled

• 8 oz. smoked whitefish (or smoked trout or sablefish)

• ¼ cup mayonnaise, or to taste

• 2-3 Tbsps sour cream (or additional mayonnaise)

• 1 Tbsp chopped parsley

• 1 Tbsps chopped dill

• 1 tsp lemon juice

• ½ tsp lemon zest

• Black pepper, to taste

Start by crumbling the fish off its skin into small pieces. Make sure to remove any bones in the process, especially if using a whole fish. 

To the fish add mayonnaise, sour cream (if using), parsley, dill, lemon juice, lemon zest, and pepper. Taste and adjust to your liking. Salad will keep for up to 1 week refrigerated.

Vegetarian Stuffed Cabbage

From Italy to Poland, from Ukraine to China, stuffed cabbage is a classic comfort food in many parts of the world. While it takes some time to make, the effort put into the dish is rewarded in its results: the cabbage turns tender and sweet, and the savory filling is enhanced by the tanginess of the tomato sauce it slowly simmers in.

While stuffed cabbage is typically made with ground meat, this Ukrainian-style stuffed cabbage is vegetarian and is made with eggplant. The recipe for the filling is versatile, it is gluten and dairy-free, and it can be made vegan by omitting the egg. If you’re not a fan of eggplant, you can replace the eggplant with zucchini or your favorite vegan ground meat substitute. If you prefer meat, you can substitute the eggplant in this recipe for an equal amount of ground beef or chicken. I find the eggplant offers its own “meatiness” to the dish; and when it is peeled and cut into small cubes it becomes tender and soft, and easily absorbs the flavors of the caramelized onion, garlic, and spices that help create the unmistakable flavors of Eastern European-style stuffed cabbage. The sauce is slightly sweet and sour and demands to be eaten with a slice of good crusty bread to mop up any last drops. If you’re like my Ukrainian Jewish family, you might also want to serve this stuffed cabbage alongside creamy mashed potatoes. Top the stuffed cabbage rolls with parsley, dill, and a dollop of sour cream and you’ll have a hearty, comforting, meal.

Vegetarian Stuffed Cabbage

Serves 4-6, makes 12-13 stuffed cabbage

Prep time: 1 hour / Cooking time: 50-60 minutes

Ingredients:

For the stuffed cabbage-

• 1 large Savoy or green cabbage

• ⅔ cups Basmati rice, rinsed

• 3 Tbsps oil

• 1 large onion, diced fine

• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced fine

• 1½ lbs pounds (2 medium) eggplant, peeled and cubed small

• 1 small carrot, diced fine

• 1½ tsps garlic powder

• ½ tsp Paprika

• ½ tsp umami season blend/dried mushroom seasoning blend (optional)

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• 1 large egg, optional

For the sauce-

• 28 oz tomato purée, plus an equal amount of water

• ½ a large onion, chopped fine

• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced fine

• 1 small apple, peeled and diced fine

• 2 Tbsps tomato paste

• 2-3 Tbsps maple syrup, or 2 tsps sugar, or to taste

• 1 bay leaf

• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:

For the cabbage- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt the water generously, and then add the cabbage to the water. Boil the cabbage for 4-5 minutes. Then remove the cabbage from the pot and allow it to cool, reserve the water to boil the rice.

 Once cool to the touch, remove the leaves, and place them on a clean kitchen towel to remove any excess liquid. The center of the cabbage/smaller leaves will not be as pliable and can be reserved for other uses.

For the filling- Bring the pot of water back to a boil, and add the rice. Boil the rice for 8-10 minutes, or until partially cooked. Drain and reserve.

To a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil and chopped onion. Allow the onion to get golden brown and slightly caramelized, stirring occasionally for about 15-20 minutes. This step takes some time but adds a lot of flavor; prep the other vegetables while the onion caramelizes. Add the garlic to the onion, and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add the cubed eggplant and diced carrot to the onion mixture; add more oil if needed. Generously season with salt and pepper, and sauté the eggplant mixture until the eggplant is softened, about 10-15 minutes. Taste, and adjust the seasoning.

Turn off the heat. Add the par-boiled rice, garlic powder, paprika, and if using, add the umami/dried mushroom seasoning blend. Allow the eggplant filling to cool. Add the egg if using, and mix until it is well combined.

For the sauce- In a large pot or Dutch oven, sauté the onions and garlic until softened and aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add the apple, and sauté for another 2-3 minutes or until slightly softened. Add tomato paste and stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato sauce, and add an equal amount of water. Then add bay leaf, salt, pepper, and maple syrup or sugar. Your sauce should start out very thin, but it will thicken as it cooks. Bring the sauce to a boil, and simmer on low for at least 30 minutes. Taste the sauce before adding the stuffed cabbage, and adjust for salt or sweetness. Dilute with more water if needed. 

To assemble - Separate the cabbage leaves, and cut out the thickest part of the center vein/core.

Fill each cabbage leaf with approximately ¼-cup of filling near the base of the leaf. Fold the base of the leaf over the filling, fold the sides of the leaf towards the center, and then roll until the cabbage is formed into a burrito-like package. Place seam-side down into the pot; cabbage rolls can be stacked on top of each other as long as they are all submerged in the sauce.

 Cover the pot, and let the cabbage simmer for 50-60 minutes on low heat, or until tender and the rice is completely cooked through. Add more water if the sauce appears too thick at any point, or when reheating. The sauce should be easily spoonable over the cabbage.

Served topped with fresh herbs and/or sour cream.

Savory Mushroom Blintzes

You may think of blintzes as always filled with a sweet cheese filling and topped with preserved fruit, but in Russia and the former Soviet Union, blintzes are made savory just as often as they are made with a sweet. My Ukrainian grandmother loved to make blintzes with a variety of fillings: from farmers' cheese and cherries to one's stuffed with mushrooms and ground meat. She called her sweet blintzes blinchiki, and her savory blintzes nalesniki. Some even call savory blintzes blini. While the names may vary depending on the cook or region, they are always delicious. These savory blintzes are filled with mushrooms and leek, and are light and flavorful. They’re vegetarian and can be made dairy-free by using non-dairy butter and milk. The mushroom filling can be made with just crimini or button mushrooms, but I love to add shiitake, oyster, or chanterelle mushrooms to the mix for a richer mushroom flavor. Breadcrumbs help bind the filling, although my grandmother would have likely used her beloved matzo meal instead. While these blintzes require a few steps to prepare and assemble, each element can be prepared in advance. Both the crepes and filling can be prepared and refrigerated 1-2 days ahead of serving. You can also pre-assemble the blintzes and brown them just before serving, which makes them a great dish for hosting. I particularly love to serve these for a lunch or brunch, topped with freshly chopped parsley or dill, and a generous dollop of sour cream. 

Mushrooms blintzes

Makes 10-12, Serves 4

Prep time: 30 minutes/ Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

For the crepes-

• 4 large eggs

• 1 cup milk (can substitute with unsweetened non-dairy milk)

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 2 Tbsps melted unsalted butter or oil, plus more as needed

• 1 tsp sugar

• ½ tsp kosher salt

For the mushroom filling-

• 1 lb (450 g)  crimini or button mushrooms

• ½ lb (225 g) shiitake, oyster, or chanterelles, mushrooms (or substitute with more crimini)

• 1 large leek

• 2 Tbsps oil, plus more as needed

• ½ cup panko breadcrumbs, or gluten-free panko breadcrumbs

• 1 Tbsp soy sauce or tamari

• 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar or rice vinegar

• ½ tsp salt, or to taste

• Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Toppings-

• Sour cream

• Chopped parsley or dill

Directions:

For the crepes- Using a blender, immersion blender, or whisk, blend the eggs, milk, flour, 2 Tablespoons melted butter, sugar, and salt together until smooth. Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight. 

Using a non-stick spray, or using a brush with oil or melted butter, lightly grease an 8-9” non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add ¼ cup of batter to the pan, and swirl the batter so that it forms an even layer in the pan. Cook the crepe for 1-2 minutes, then flip it and cook for another 1-2 minutes on the other side – or until the crepe is golden. Transfer to a plate. Repeat the process by spraying or brushing the pan with oil between each crepe. Stack finished crepes on top of each other. Crepes can be made 1-2 days in advance and refrigerated until ready to assemble. 

For the mushroom filling-  Trim the woody stems of the mushrooms, then dice them very fine. To save time, you can finely dice the mushrooms in a food processor by pulsing them several times; be careful not to over-process the mushrooms into a paste. 

Trim the darker, green ends of the leek. Slice the leek lengthwise, and wash it of any remaining grit. Finely dice the leek.

Over medium-high heat, add a few tablespoons of oil to a large castiron or non-skillet skillet. Add the mushrooms and leeks to the pan and sauté until the mushrooms have started to brown, and have released most of their liquid, about 10-15 minutes. 

Add the breadcrumbs to the pan, and add another drizzle of oil if needed. Sauté for 1-2 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs are starting to stick to the mushrooms. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and pepper to the pan and stir. Taste and adjust the salt or pepper as needed. Cook for another 2-3 minutes, then remove the filling from the heat. The filling can be used immediately or can be made a day ahead of assembling. 

To assemble and cook the blintzes- Add 2 heaping tablespoons of the mushroom filling to the center of each crepe. Fold over each side towards the center of the crepe, then fold the top over the two sides and roll the crepe up, like you would a burrito or eggroll. Continue assembling the blintzes, and place them seam-side down until ready to cook. 

Add a little butter or oil to a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Place the blintzes seam-side down in the pan, and let it brown, about 2-3 minutes. Flip the blintz, and brown it on the opposite side for an additional 2-3 minutes. Prepare the blintzes in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Serve warm topped with fresh herbs, sour cream, or your favorite toppings.

Vegan Carrot Lox

Carrots make a surprisingly delicious plant-based substitute for traditional lox. By cooking carrots and marinating them in a few simple and flavorful ingredients, they become smoky, salty, and bright with acidity. The combination of liquid smoke and toasted seaweed gives the carrots a transformative smoky seafood flavor. Liquid smoke can be found in most grocery stores and is made from actual wood smoke that is condensed into liquid form (and a little goes a long way). You can substitute liquid smoke with good-quality smoked paprika if desired, or omit the liquid smoke entirely for vegan lox that is less smoky. Carrot lox adds a pop of color to any brunch spread, and they pair perfectly with schmear, cucumber, fresh dill, and all the traditional bagel fixings.

Vegan Carrot Lox

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

• 3 large carrots, about 1 lb. 

• Salt, as needed

• ¼ cup water

• ¼ cup soy sauce or tamari

• 2 Tbsps rice vinegar or white vinegar

• Juice of ½ a lemon 

• 1 Tbsp maple syrup or agave

• 1 tsp dried dill

• ¾ tsp liquid smoke (or 1 tsp smoked paprika)

• 1 sheet toasted Nori, or 3-4 pieces of seaweed snacks

Directions:

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Season the water generously with salt. Boil the carrots for 10-15 minutes, or until just tender when pierced with a small knife.

Peel the carrots by rubbing off their peels. Using a mandoline, vegetable peeler, or sharp knife, slice the carrots lengthwise into long strips. 

In a large bowl, combine the water, soy sauce, rice vinegar, lemon juice, maple syrup, dried dill, and liquid smoke. Whisk together, then add the nori. Add the carrot strips to the bowl and toss everything together. Transfer to the refrigerator and marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight; the carrot lox will last up to 1 week in an airtight container in the fridge.

Kreplach Two Ways - Chicken and Vegetarian

I will be teaching how to make these kreplach on August 22nd at 4:30 PST, for The Nosher’s High Holiday Cooking Class Series. The class if free to all, register via the link!

Kreplach became a staple of Ashkenazi cooking in Germany and Eastern Europe by way of Italian Jews. Kreplach are stuffed dumplings, often made with a dough that is similar to Italian ravioli or tortellini. They are traditionally served in chicken soup for holidays and Shabbat meals.

 Fillings for kreplach vary from home to home, as do their shapes and sizes. Here you’ll find two filling options: classic chicken and onion, and vegetarian mushroom and cabbage. The chicken filling can be made with the same chicken you might use to make your chicken soup, or with any pre-cooked chicken. The chicken gets shredded chicken and then mixed with caramelized onions and fresh herbs, making the kreplach flavorful and light. The mushroom and cabbage version is meaty with a rich flavor, and they are a great alternative for vegetarians.

The same dough can be used with any filling you desire and in any shape. Triangular-shaped kreplach are common, especially during Purim when it is customary to eat foods in the shape of a triangle. Kreplach are also often served for the pre-fast meal at Yom Kippur. While kreplach take a little time and effort to make, there are few dishes that are as rewarding, comforting, and festive as dumplings.

Kreplach Two Ways

(Makes 28-30 dumplings)

Ingredients for the dough:

• 2 cups (270 g) all-purpose flour

• 3 lg eggs, at room temperature

• 1 Tbsp oil

• 1 tsp kosher salt

To make the dough by hand: Add the flour to a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the middle of the flour, then add the eggs, oil, and salt. Using a fork, beat the eggs in the center of the well, then slowly begin to incorporate the flour into the egg mixture. Once you can no longer mix the dough with the fork transfer it onto a clean surface. Begin to combine the dough with your hands until it forms a ball; if it is very sticky add a little more flour. Knead the dough until silky and smooth, about 5-6 minutes. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour or up to 8 hours.

To make the dough in a food processor: combine all of the ingredients in the food processor. Pulse 5-6 times, then press on and let the food processor run until the mixture forms a ball, about 30-60 seconds. Transfer the ball of dough onto a clean surface, knead for one minute, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour or up to 8 hours.

To assemble the kreplach: Divide the dough in half. Keep one half wrapped or covered while you roll out the first batch of dough.

Lightly dust your surface with flour, then roll out the dough as thin as possible; you should be able to almost see through the dough. Once the dough is rolled out, cut it into equal-sized 3” squares. Fill each square with approximately 1 teaspoon of filling, be careful not to overfill your kreplach.

Fill a small dish with water, then begin to form your kreplach. Dab the edges of the dough with water, then fold into a triangle shape, seal the edges by firmly pressing the dough, or by using the tines of a fork. Place the formed kreplach on a parchment-lined baking sheet; dust lightly with flour if they are sticky on the outside. You can cook the kreplach immediately, or place them in the freezer in a single layer. Once frozen, transfer them into an airtight container; they will last in the freezer for up to 3 months.

To cook and serve: When ready to cook, fill a large pot of water to a boil. Simmer the kreplach for 15-20 minutes, or until very tender. If cooking the kreplach from frozen, simmer for 5-10 minutes longer. Once cooked and tender, add the cooked kreplach to your soup and serve.

FILLINGS

Ingredients for the chicken filling:

• 1.5 cups shredded cooked chicken

• ½ a medium yellow or white onion, diced fine

• 2 Tbsps chopped parsley or dill

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• Oil, as needed

To make the chicken filling: Shred the chicken. You can use the chicken from making your chicken soup, or rotisserie chicken.

Add a drizzle of oil to a pan over medium heat, then add the diced onion to the pan and cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

 In a bowl, combine the shredded chicken, browned onion, chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. The filling can be made up to 1 day in advance.

Ingredients for the vegetarian filling:

• ½ a medium yellow or white onion, diced fine

• 8 oz crimini mushrooms, chopped fine

• 2 cups finely shredded cabbage

• 1-2 Tbsps soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• Oil, as needed

To make the vegetarian filling: Add a drizzle of oil to a large pan over medium heat. Add the diced onion to the pan and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the chopped mushrooms to the pan, and sauté until they have released all of their liquid and are beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and soy sauce to the pan. Sauté until the cabbage is softened, about 3-4 minutes. Taste and season with more soy sauce, salt, or pepper. Transfer to a bowl and allow to fully cool before assembling your kreplach. The filling can be made up to 1 day in advance.

Chicken Tabaka and Garlic Sauce

Chicken tabaka is a Western Georgian dish where a whole chicken is flattened and pan-fried while being weighed down by another pan or heavy object. The chicken ends up golden brown and crispy on the outside while staying juicy inside.

Tabaka (or taphaka) comes from the name for a Georgian frying pan called a tapa, which is traditionally used to make this recipe. You can make chicken tabaka with any heavy-bottomed skillet or cast iron pan, along with something you can weigh the chicken down with, such as a second heavy skillet, a heavy pot, or bricks wrapped in foil. You can also make this recipe on a grill by cooking the chicken directly on the grates while weighing it down. This dish is similar to spatchcocked chicken (where the backbone is removed from the chicken), but for chicken tabaka it is common to flatten the chicken by simply cutting down the center of the breastbone. Flattening and pressing the chicken allows it to cook quickly and evenly while creating the perfect texture and taste. 

This rustic and simple dish is often served with garlic sauce or tkemali, a Georgian wild plum sauce. Chicken tabaka pairs perfectly with fried potatoes or rice, and with a big simple salad of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. I like to serve mine with a Georgian garlic cilantro sauce made in the same pan you cook the chicken in, along with lemon wedges to squeeze on top for an extra pop of flavor. 

Cooking notes: Make sure to cook the chicken over medium-low heat. If the temperature is too high, the chicken will burn on the outside. This recipe works best with a smaller chicken that is between 3-4 lbs, if you’re using a larger bird the cooking time will take longer.

Chicken Tabaka

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the chicken-

• 1 (3-4 lb) chicken

• 2-3 tsps paprika

• Salt, to taste

• Oil, as needed

• Lemon wedges, for garnish

For the garlic sauce-

• 1 head of garlic, about 10-12 cloves, peeled and minced fine

• ¾ cup water

• ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:

For the chicken: Slice the chicken down the center of the breastbone using a sharp knife or kitchen shears. Open the chicken and press it down flat, skin-side up. (Note: you can also flatten the chicken using the spatchcock method of cutting out the backbone). Cover the chicken with a piece of parchment or plastic wrap, and using a meat mallet or rolling pin, lightly pound on the chicken to flatten it. Season the chicken generously with salt, add the paprika, and rub the salt and spice all over both sides.

Over medium-low heat, add a generous drizzle of oil to a large cast-iron or heavy-bottomed skillet. Once the pan is hot, add the chicken skin-side up. Place a clean heavy object on top of the chicken to weigh it down, such as a second cast-iron skillet, a sheet pan topped with a large pot on top, or bricks wrapped in foil. Let the chicken cook for 25 minutes, maintain medium-low heat, and occasionally rotate the pan if your burner cooks unevenly. After 25 minutes, flip the chicken so that it is now skin-side down, and cook for an additional 25-30 minutes, or until the juices run clear when pierced, or it reaches an internal temperature of 165°F when tested with a meat thermometer.

Once cooked, transfer the chicken to a serving dish and allow it to rest for 15 minutes. While it rests prepare the garlic sauce.

For the garlic sauce: Over medium heat, add a drizzle of oil to the same pan you cooked the chicken in. Add the minced garlic to the pan, and sauté for 2-3 minutes, or until the garlic is aromatic but not browned. Add ¾ cup of water, scrape off all the delicious bits in the pan, and allow the mixture to simmer and reduce for another 3-4 minutes. Turn off the heat, and add the chopped cilantro. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the chicken just before serving, or serve the sauce on the side. 

Matbucha - Tomato and Pepper Dip

Matbucha is a Maghrebi dish made of tomatoes and peppers and means “cooked salad” in Arabic. Jewish immigrants from Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya brought matbucha with them to Israel, where it has become a staple of Israeli cuisine. Matbucha is nearly as popular as hummus, and the two are usually located right by each other at the grocery store. 

Matbucha is technically a salad, but it does take serious cooking time. While store-bought versions are convenient, nothing compares to making this recipe at home. First, you roast tomatoes and peppers until they are charred with a smoky flavor, and then you simmer the matbucha for over an hour until it becomes thick and luxurious. The slow simmering process can’t be rushed, as all the flavor comes from the slow-cooked tomatoes. Matbucha varies from kitchen to kitchen, some cooks add onions and/or garlic, and some prefer making it with lots of hot peppers. Adding some fresh chili pepper is traditional; in this recipe, it adds a very mild and subtle heat.

Matbucha has the consistency of a dip or spread, and it is commonly served with first-course salads (salatim) at the start of Middle Eastern and North African meals. Matbucha also makes a delicious topping for grilled meat or fish, as a sandwich spread, and it can even be used as the base for shakshuka. 

Matbucha

Serves 4/ Makes 2-3 cups

Ingredients:

• 6 large Roma tomatoes

• 3 medium red bell peppers

• 1 jalapeno or serrano pepper, seeded and diced fine

• ½  a medium yellow onion, diced small

• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 tsp salt, or to taste

• ¼ cup olive oil

• 1-2 tsps sugar (optional, or to taste)

 Directions:

Line a baking sheet with foil. Set the oven to broil (alternatively, you can char the peppers over a gas flame or grill).

 Place the tomatoes on one half of the baking sheet, and the peppers on the other half of the same baking sheet. Place the baking sheet on the top rack of the oven, and broil the tomatoes and peppers for 10 minutes, or until blackened on top. Using tongs or a fork, remove the tomatoes. Turn the peppers onto their opposite side and continue to broil them until blackened on both sides, another 8-10 minutes. (Watch your tomatoes and peppers carefully, as some ovens will broil them more quickly than others.)

Once the peppers are blackened on both sides, place them in a bowl and cover it tightly with foil or plastic wrap to let the peppers steam. Prep the other ingredients while the tomatoes and peppers cool. Once cool enough to the touch, peel the peppers and remove their seeds, and peel the tomatoes. Dice the peppers and tomatoes and reserve.

To a medium pot on medium heat, add the olive oil, diced jalapeno, diced onion, and minced garlic. Allow the mixture to cook and soften for 4-5 minutes, until the onion and garlic are aromatic, but before they start turning brown. Add the peeled diced peppers and tomatoes to the mixture, and bring it up to a simmer. Lower the heat, and let the matbucha simmer for 90 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture significantly thickens. Stir every 10-15 minutes throughout the cooking time. Matbucha can take more or less time depending on the size of the pot you use, or the amount of liquid in the tomatoes. If the mixture still has a lot of liquid, continue to cook it for up to two hours.

Once cooked, allow the matbucha to fully cool and then refrigerate it. Matbucha can be eaten right after it cools, but it tastes even better the next day. It will last up to one week in the fridge.

Golubtsi - Classic Stuffed Cabbage

In our family, we preferred our golubtsi (stuffed cabbage) with chicken, and my grandmother taught me to use Savoy cabbage. Savoy’s leaves are softer and more pliable than standard green cabbage, with a subtle sweet flavor. This recipe is meant to merely be a guide; add more or less rice, use the meat you prefer, add seasonings or herbs you love, and adjust the sauce to your own liking. This dish can be easily be made in advance and reheated before serving, and it also freezes well. I like to serve mine with a big salad, sliced toasted crusty bread, or fresh challah.

“Golubtsi” - Stuffed Cabbage

Ingredients:

For the sauce-

• 28 oz tomato sauce/purée + equal parts water

• 1 onion, chopped fine

• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced fine

• 1 small apple, diced fine

• 2 Tbsps tomato paste

• 1 bay leaf

• 2-3 Tbsps maple/agave syrup, or 1 tablespoon sugar, or to taste

• Salt and pepper, to taste

For the stuffed cabbage-

• 1 large savoy cabbage

• 1½ lbs ground chicken, turkey, or beef

• ⅔ cups basmati rice, rinsed

• ½ medium onion, diced fine

• 1 large egg

• 2¼  tsps Diamond kosher salt

• 1-2 tsps garlic powder, or 1 clove garlic minced very fine

Directions:

For the sauce- In a large pot or Dutch oven, sauté the onions and garlic until softened and aromatic, about 5 minutes. Add the apple, and sauté for another 2-3 minutes or until slightly softened. Add tomato paste and stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato sauce, and an equal amount of water, bay leaf, salt, pepper, and sweetener of choice (if using). Your sauce should start out thin and liquidy; it will thicken as it cooks. Bring the sauce to a boil, and simmer on low for at least 30 minutes, or while you prepare the cabbage and filling. Taste the sauce before adding the stuffed cabbage, and adjust if necessary for salt or sweetness. Dilute with more water if needed.  

For the cabbage- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt the water generously, and then add the cabbage to the water. Boil the cabbage for 2-3 minutes. Then remove it and allow it to cool. 

While the cabbage is cooling, add the rinsed rice to the same pot of salted boiling water. Let the rice boil for 8-10 minutes until partially cooked. Drain, and allow to cool and dry. 

Make the filling: combine the ground meat, cooled and drained rice, diced onion, egg, salt, and garlic powder. 

To assemble and cook: Separate the cabbage leaves, trimming any thick part of the stem. If your cabbage isn’t separating easily, place it back in boiling water for an additional 2-3 minutes. 

Place a leaf of cabbage down flat, fill it with approximately ¼-cup of filling near the base of the leaf. Fold the base of the leaf over the filling, fold the sides of the leaf towards the center, and then roll until the cabbage is formed into a burrito-like package. Place seam-side down into the pot; cabbage rolls can be stacked on top of each other as long as they are all submerged in the sauce. 

Cover the pot, and let the cabbage simmer for 45-60 minutes on low heat, or until tender and cooked through. Add more water if the sauce appears too thick at any point. The sauce should be easily spoonable over the cabbage.

Stuffed cabbage can be reheated in a covered baking dish in the oven at 350°F, a covered pot on the stove , or in a microwave. 

Pampushky - Ukrainian Garlic Bread Rolls

Pampushky are fluffy, soft, Ukrainian garlic rolls. Ukraine was known as the “breadbasket” of the Soviet Union, and both garlic and bread are staples of the cuisine. These rolls are traditionally served alongside borscht; the garlic’s sharpness compliments the sweetness of borscht’s beets. Garlic + bread is such a common side to borscht, that my own grandparents would often simply eat slices of brown bread and whole raw cloves of garlic with their soup. 

I was first inspired to make pampushky years ago when I came across a recipe in Mamushka, Olia Hercules’ exceptional Ukrainian cookbook. This recipe differs slightly, but the idea is the same for all pampushky: make pillowy soft buns, and top them with a mixture of oil and copious amounts of freshly minced or grated raw garlic. I prefer sunflower oil for this recipe, which is traditionally used in Ukrainian cooking. The moment the rolls come out of the oven, generously slather them with the garlic and oil mixture. The heat of the bread cooks the garlic just enough to slightly mellow its flavor. Fresh parsley and dill are also added to the garlic oil, which offers a bright herbaceousness to the spicy heat of the garlic. Make no mistake, these rolls are adamantly for garlic lovers. 

Pampushky are best served warm, either soon after coming out of the oven, or reheated just before serving. As you set the rolls on the table, make sure to announce that you are serving  “pampushky.” Saying the word out loud is part of the joy of making these rolls. 

Ingredients-

• For the dough:

• 1 cup (250 ml) milk 

• 2¼ tsps (1 packet) active dry yeast

• 2 Tbsps sugar

• 2 Tbsps oil (sunflower, avocado, or olive) 

• 3 cups (380 g) all-purpose flour

• 2 tsps salt

• 1 egg, beaten

For the garlic oil:

• 3 Tbsps oil (sunflower, avocado, or olive) 

• 3-4 garlic cloves

• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh dill

• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley 

• Flake salt (optional)

Directions-

Warm the milk until it is between 80-100°F, and just warm to the touch. Add the milk to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment, or add the milk to a large bowl if kneading by hand. Add the sugar to the milk, then sprinkle the yeast on top. Whisk the mixture and allow it to activate and become foamy for about 5-10 minutes. Once the yeast is activated, add the oil to the milk mixture, then add the flour and salt. If using a stand mixer, start mixing the dough on the lowest setting. Once the dough starts to form a ball, increase the speed to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes. Alternatively, knead for 10-12 minutes by hand. The dough is done when it is elastic, glossy, soft, and easily comes away from the sides of the bowl/surface. Add the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, and cover with a clean damp kitchen towel. Let the dough rise for 1-1½ hours, or until doubled in size. 

Once the dough has risen and doubled in size, punch it down to remove the air, and transfer it to a clean surface. Form the dough into a rectangle, and then divide it into 8 equal-sized pieces; weigh each one to be exact. Form each piece into a ball by pinching the edges inward, and then on a flat surface, roll the dough into a ball shape.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9” round or square baking dish, preferably metal as opposed to glass or ceramic. Beat the egg for the egg wash. Place each ball of dough in the baking dish, with an equal distance between each ball. Allow the dough to rise a second time for 30 minutes, or until the rolls have puffed up and filled the pan. Brush the tops of the dough with the egg wash and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until deep golden brown.

While the rolls bake, make the garlic oil mixture. Finely mince the garlic using a garlic press or a Microplane. Combine the oil, garlic, chopped dill, and chopped parsley together. Brush the garlic-herb mixture over the rolls immediately after they come out of the oven. Allow the rolls to cool for 15 minutes before serving. Pampushky can also be served at room temperature or reheated.

Plov, One-pot chicken and rice

 Plov is a rice pilaf-style dish that became popular in the Soviet Union by way of Uzbekistan. In truth, this dish’s origin has a longer story, and one with a Jewish connection. The earliest version of rice pilaf is documented by a 10th-century Persian scholar, and Persian cuisine is well known for its glorious rice dishes and tahdig. Plov can also look like pilau in the UK, pulao in India, and even paella in Spain. Ultimately, there are countless cultures that have some version of a one-pot rice and meat dish. So, what makes plov different?

Plov’s popularity in Russia can be traced back to at least the time of Alexander the Great. Upon returning from Central Asia to Macedonia, his soldiers were said to have brought back plov as one of their new favorite foods. The existence of this dish in Central Asia has a distinct tie to the Jewish community there. The Bukharian Jews of Central Asia are Mizrahi Jews whose lineage goes back to the time of King David, and Ancient Persia. During the reign of Persia’s Cyrus the Great, Jews made their way to Central Asia and formed a community where they eventually spoke a dialect of Persian called Bukhori. Central Asian versions of plov, particularly the Uzbeki variety, were later popularized across all Soviet republics during the time of the Soviet Union.

Soviet-style plov is most commonly made with lamb as its meat, carrots as its vegetable, and is typically spiced with cumin and coriander. However, you will find a wide range of plov made with different kinds of meat or poultry, spices, and even the addition of dried fruits or nuts. I prefer to keep plov simple with traditional flavors. I use chicken thighs for their ease of availability and affordability, and I add loads of carrots and onions, which seem to magically disappear into the rice once cooked. Garlic, bay, cumin, and coriander perfume this plov.

This dish is a one-pot meal. Each element takes a little time, but once all of the ingredients are prepped, it comes together quickly and then gets popped into the oven to finish cooking. It reheats and freezes well, and is hearty and filling. Plov is the kind of comfort food that can be made as much for a special occasion as for a warming weekend dinner.

Chicken Plov

Serves 4-6 

Ingredients:

• 2 cups Basmati or Jasmine rice

• 3¼ cups boiling chicken stock or water

• 1½ lbs boneless skinless chicken thighs

• 3-4 (½ lb.) carrots

• 2 medium small yellow onions

• 2 small heads of garlic

• 2-3 bay leaves (ideally fresh)

• 1½ teaspoons ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon ground coriander

• 1 teaspoon paprika

• ½ teaspoon aleppo pepper or pepper flake (optional)

• salt and pepper

• Oil, for cooking

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Rinse the rice well, then place it in a bowl of cold water to soak as you prepare the other ingredients. This helps remove excess starch and makes for fluffy rice.

Cut the chicken thighs into 2”-3” pieces, and salt with 1½ teaspoons of kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Reserve.

Peel and julienne (matchstick cut) the carrots. Alternatively, you can use the medium holes of a box grater, or the shredder attachment on a food processor to grate the carrot. Peel and halve the onions, then slice them thin. Halve the garlic heads crosswise and reserve.

 On medium-high heat, generously drizzle oil into the bottom of a large Dutch oven, or a wide heavy-bottomed deep skillet (at least 12” wide). If you do not have either, you can brown the chicken and vegetables in any large skillet, and then transfer everything to a large ceramic or pyrex casserole dish. Brown the seasoned chicken thigh pieces on each side, then remove and reserve.

Lower the heat to medium, and into the same Dutch oven or skillet, add the onions and carrots. Generously season with salt and pepper, and sauté for 5-6 minutes or until softened. Add the cumin, coriander, paprika, and aleppo/chili pepper to the onions and carrots and sauté for an additional minute. Drain the rice that has been soaking, and then add it to the carrots and spice mixture. Sauté and stir for 1-2 more minutes, until the rice is well coated in the mixture. At this point, if you are using a casserole dish, transfer the mixture to the dish. If you are using a Dutch oven or deep skillet, continue the next steps in the same pot.

Add the chicken to the rice mixture, then nestle the garlic heads and bay leaves into the rice. Pour the boiling stock or water over the rice and chicken mixture (the liquid must be at a boil when added in order to cook the rice properly). Make sure everything is covered by at least ¼” of liquid. If not, add an additional ¼ cup of boiling water or stock.

Cover the Dutch oven or skillet with a lid, or cover the casserole dish tightly with foil. Place in the oven for 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, and leave the plov covered for an additional 10 minutes.

Once it has rested, fluff the rice just before serving. There may be delicious browned crispy bits of rice on the edges. If your rice still feels too wet, you can cover it again and put it back in the oven for an additional 10-15 minutes to cook further.

Tefteli - Russian Meatballs

As published for The Nosher 

For the first five years of my life, we lived in the apartment next door to my grandparents. I may have only been a toddler, but I still have vivid memories of being in that home with its many house plants overflowing in their pots, tchotchkes and art from the former Soviet Union. What I remember most about being at my grandparents’ home was the food. Often, there was a pot of something simmering on the stove. On the best days, that pot was filled with tefteli, otherwise known as Russian meatballs. I can still see myself sitting at my grandmother’s table in front of a steaming bowl of tefteli, eagerly waiting for them to cool down so I could start eating.

 What makes Russian meatballs different from other kinds? While tefteli come in all types of variations and preparations depending on your own family’s tradition, one of their defining features is that they’re typically made with rice. It’s likely that rice was first incorporated into the dish as a means to stretch the meat, but it also adds a great texture and flavor. Unlike the Italian kind, most Russian meatballs don’t use breadcrumbs, or much by way of herbs or spice. Some folks make them with beef, some with chicken or turkey. The non-kosher versions are often made with pork, and are cooked in a creamy tomato sauce. Some cooks dust the meatballs in flour and then brown them before adding them to the sauce. Some bake them in the oven. Some make a sauce that ends up so thick it is almost shakshuka-like. Usually, shredded carrot is added to the base of the tomato sauce, adding sweetness. Tefteli are also meant to be eaten on their own as a main course, and they are frequently served with creamy mashed potatoes, but I also love them with a side of polenta, or even with just a slice of good crusty bread.

 Every time I make tefteli I try to replicate what my grandmother made for me. Yes, I’m biased, but her tefetli are the best I’ve ever tried. This recipe is fairly simple in terms of its ingredients and steps, but the key to her tefteli’s success is one step that you can’t rush or skip: caramelizing the onions. Caramelizing onions was my grandmother’s go-to flavor builder. When onions get golden and jammy from cooking slowly in a little fat, they add sweetness and umami to any dish. The rest of this recipe mainly involves adding things to a large pot. Leftover rice is great for the meatball mixture, but if you don’t have some on hand, I find the timing works out well if you cook the rice while you’re caramelizing the onions and making the sauce. I prefer to use dark meat ground chicken for this, but you can definitely make this with turkey or beef.

 This is the kind of dish that rarely gets a written recipe. I’ve given you specifics, but deviating from what is suggested will only make this better. Taste and modify your tefteli to your own liking. For instance, my mom actually dislikes rice in tefteli, so she adds breadcrumbs or matzo meal instead. I like to add chili flake for subtle heat, but that can be completely omitted. I find that these are perfect when they’re on the larger-side, but if you like smaller-sized meatballs go for that. In any form, these are best made in a big batch so that they can be shared with loved ones, and so that they can fill your home with warmth and the smell of good simple food.

Tefteli - Russian Meatballs

Serves 4-6

For the sauce-

• 1 large yellow onion, diced small

• 3 Tablespoons oil (sunflower, avocado, or canola)

• 1 large carrot, peeled and shredded

• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced fine

• 2 Tablespoons tomato paste

• 1 (28 oz) can crushed tomatoes

• 2 (15 oz) cans plain tomato sauce/pureed tomatoes

• 2 Tablespoons maple syrup or 1 Tablespoon sugar, or to taste

• 2 teaspoons dried oregano or thyme

• Pinch of red pepper flake, or to taste

• 1 (28 oz) can filled with water (about 3.5 cups)

• Salt and pepper, to taste

For the meatballs-

• 2 lbs dark meat ground chicken or turkey

• 2 cups cooked Basmati or Jasmine rice (about ¾ cup uncooked)

• 1 large onion, minced very fine

• 1 large clove of garlic, finely grated or minced

• 1 large egg

• 2½ teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond brand)

• Ground pepper, to taste

• Chopped flat leaf parsley, for garnish

For the sauce-

Add oil to a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion to the pot. Allow the onion to soften and caramelize until golden, stirring occasionally, about 15-20 minutes (you can go for longer if you want the onion to caramelize more deeply). Add grated carrot, minced garlic, and a big pinch of salt to the pot. Stir and sauté for 3-4 minutes, or until the carrot has softened and the garlic is aromatic. Add the tomato paste and stir until everything is coated, about 1 minute. Add the crushed tomato, tomato sauce, maple syrup, herbs and chili flake to the pot. Fill the empty 28 oz crushed tomato can with water and add that water to the pot. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Let the mixture come up to a simmer.

For the meatballs-

In a large bowl, combine the ground chicken, cooked rice, and onion. I like to use a microplane to grate my garlic straight into the bowl. Add the salt, pepper, and egg. Combine everything together until well incorporated, but make sure not to overmix or the meat can become tough. Clean hands work best for this. Before I cook the meatballs, I like to take a spoonful of the mixture and cook it in a small pan to taste for seasoning. I add more salt or pepper accordingly.

Form the ground meat mixture into even-sized balls. I prefer my tefteli slightly larger than a golf ball, but make them according to your own preferences. Drop the formed meatballs into the simmering sauce. Make sure the sauce returns to a simmer, then lower the heat and partially cover the pot with a lid. Simmer the tefteli for 35-45 minutes or until cooked through. If you find the sauce is too thick you can add more water. If you want the sauce less thick, you can simmer it for longer to reduce and thicken.

Serve the meatballs with a generous ladle of sauce, topped with chopped fresh parsley alongside mashed potatoes, your favorite side, or slices of good bread. 

Meatballs can be made several days in advance, and they freeze and reheat well.